- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 1,063
I have about 4 acres of grass to mow each week during the summer rainy time so when the tractor decided to stop moving it was a problem. I have a 1951 Allis Chalmers WD and a belly mower that I have used for over 20 years. Cuts over 8 feet at a pass.
Pulled it up on the cement to see what was wrong.
This is what I found. The hand clutch collar decided to disintegrate and leave the area.
And it is supposed to go here.
No parts are available new and a used search didn't bring up anything either. Because of the way it's made the tractor has to be split apart even if I could have found one to replace it. I did not want to do that and only have a week to get this working again. I don't have a piece of brass to make one out of but I did have a piece of steel plate. I figured if the brass one lasted for 65 years then one made of steel should last as long as I am around.
Put it in the 4 jaw and bored the center to size then I used a 3/16 HSS bit to bore out the inside slot. The bit was sharpened square on the end and worked like a cutoff blade in reverse.
This was the result.
My part does not include the round ears that ride in the shift fork. I plan on drilling and taping holes in these locations so I can screw in bolts for pivots. This modification should allow me to install the new part without splitting the tractor.
More later thanks for looking.
Ray
Pulled it up on the cement to see what was wrong.
This is what I found. The hand clutch collar decided to disintegrate and leave the area.
And it is supposed to go here.
No parts are available new and a used search didn't bring up anything either. Because of the way it's made the tractor has to be split apart even if I could have found one to replace it. I did not want to do that and only have a week to get this working again. I don't have a piece of brass to make one out of but I did have a piece of steel plate. I figured if the brass one lasted for 65 years then one made of steel should last as long as I am around.
Put it in the 4 jaw and bored the center to size then I used a 3/16 HSS bit to bore out the inside slot. The bit was sharpened square on the end and worked like a cutoff blade in reverse.
This was the result.
My part does not include the round ears that ride in the shift fork. I plan on drilling and taping holes in these locations so I can screw in bolts for pivots. This modification should allow me to install the new part without splitting the tractor.
More later thanks for looking.
Ray
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