My 29 yr old 4x6 saw is dead!

COMachinist

Active User
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
515
My HF 4x6 band saw is on its last legs. I can’t keep a blade on the wheels. Every time I start a cut, new, old top quality or cheap the just pops off. I have removed ever thing cleaned and replaced all the bearings, and bushings, I could find, or make and no go. It want cut any thing blade just pop’s off the wheels. Every thing on this old friend and it just won’t come back this time. Any idea’s what is wrong wit it or what is causing the blade to jump?
CH
 

jcp

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
394
Probably need to machine the blade support surfaces of the pulleys back parallel to the axles..
 

COMachinist

Active User
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
515
Probably need to machine the blade support surfaces of the pulleys back parallel to the axles..
Hi
Are you talking bout the tires surfaces? The top tire when I take the blade off or it jumps off, it finds the bottom or heavey spot so know it really out of balance. But just about every moving part is loose as a goose. I really hate to star a complete resto with new machined tire mount blocks and start put more time and money, than I can buy a something to replace it.
Only problem there is everything is still sitting on the boats , in the ports. Who know when that end and the supply chain recovers
 
Last edited:

C-Bag

Ned Ludd's bro
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Messages
3,848
!?!? HF 4x6 horizontal bandsaws don’t have “tires” the blade wheels. The HF 14” vertical does, but not the 4x6. The blade is right on the wheel. If it is a 4x6 have you tried adjusting the track/tilt of the take up wheel? Is there play in either wheel?
 

silence dogood

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
942
Your wheels may not be lined up straight because of cracks in the frame. Or the frame could be bent. On my 70 year old Wilton, there was a weld that broke so the frame had a twist to it. Rewelded it and reinforced the frame with some extra steel and the saw runs great now. I realize that yours is cast iron. So if that is the problem you'll have to do something different to fix it. Not sure if that is in your case, but it is worth looking checking out.
 

MrWhoopee

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2018
Messages
4,193
I'm a huge fan of the 4x6 bandsaw, they are a remarkable piece of equipment for what they cost. I am also a huge fan of repairing rather than replacing. However, at some point it becomes impractical if not impossible to repair a tool.

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/firestone-band-saw/7395317939.html


 

COMachinist

Active User
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
515
!?!? HF 4x6 horizontal bandsaws don’t have “tires” the blade wheels. The HF 14” vertical does, but not the 4x6. The blade is right on the wheel. If it is a 4x6 have you tried adjusting the track/tilt of the take up wheel? Is there play in either wheel?
Thanks word police, we are safe from terminology fail and yes the tilt has been adjusted.
CH
 
Last edited:

COMachinist

Active User
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
515
I'm a huge fan of the 4x6 bandsaw, they are a remarkable piece of equipment for what they cost. I am also a huge fan of repairing rather than replacing. However, at some point it becomes impractical if not impossible to repair a tool.

https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/firestone-band-saw/7395317939.html


Me too, I have had mine for almost 30 yr and it as only had a motor replacement about 10 yr ago. Thank for the links I searched Craiglist first thing looking for a used one, or parts donor. I noticed the upper “Wheel” block needs some tightening up it is very wobbly it looks like, the groves and side plates have worn a lot so the wheel wobbles to much so will make new thicker side plates. I made a shim for the upper wheel to get it lined up with the drive wheel face. I may mahe a nice tight sleeve for the upper wheel axle that goes in the mount block. The frame is not cracked any where that I can see. the paint will need to be stripped to Magna flux the frame to make sure it is not cracked in critical areas. I was hoping to not get this deep into a complete resto at this time. I’m still recovering from left knee replacement. Like me time has taken it’s toll on us both
Thanks for the input.
CH
 

markba633csi

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
7,612
Oily wheels (and blade) can make the blade jump off, check that. Take off the blade and lay a straightedge across both wheels; make sure they are in the same plane. Put tension with your hand on the idler wheel when measuring to simulate the pull when the blade is on.
Make sure the driving wheel is tight on the shaft and not moving around from bad bearings. Sounds like you may have found some looseness in the idler wheel block/mount- that might do it
Other than some problem with the blade guides I can't think of anything else, except really worn wheels
-Mark
 
Last edited:

cwilliamrose

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2021
Messages
84
Our 35 year old saw has been modified and tweaked to the point where the blade stays on and doesn't usually break prematurely. We shimmed the upper wheel and lengthened the adjustable support arm to get the bearings closer to the work when cutting small stuff.

DSCN5000a.JPG
DSCN5002a.JPG
 
It can take up to an hour for ads to appear on the page. See our code implementation guide for more details. If you already have Auto ad code on your pages there's no need to replace it with this code
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock