My own Grizzly DF-1237G setup/restoration thread

TonyBen

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Not to hijack the other guy's Grizzly thread, I'll start my own. As I stated in my "Hello" thread, I was gifted a Grizzly DF-1237G 12"x37" lathe. I had an electrician come in and wire the garage for it and the Jet JMD-18 mill/drill I was also given.

The cross-slide had some terrible slop in it. I had to turn the wheel one full revolution before it would change directions. Somehow, I had an epiphany this morning and checked the screw that holds the cross-feed nut in place and from the top, I could see it wiggle as I moved the knob. I quick 1/4 turn with a 6mm Hex wrench and my full turn of slop turned into 1/8th of a turn of slop. I still get a loud CLACK-CLACK-CLACK sound when I turn the cross slide wheel.

I guess the main thing I really need to do is work on the accuracy of the lathe. To re-hash over what I already stated in a couple of other threads, my 3-jaw chuck was in terrible shape. It had about 0.050" runout. I have it disassembled and it was really dirty. I did check that the jaws were in the right place, and they were. As soon as I have more time, I'll clean them out and re-assemble them.

I've been able to chuck up some pieces and get runout in the 4-jaw down to about 0.0003" of runout. I have some junk 1/2" steel shafts that are nicely machined and straight that I got form a scrap bin at work that are about 12" long. They appear to be precision machined. Over roughly a 9" travel, I get about 0.0015" of runout. Is that good or bad?

The headstock is not aligned with the tailstock. I checked this with the same bar, which has a threaded hole in it, and installed a Jacobs drill chuck in the tailstock with a demurring drill bit in it. When I advance the tailstock, it sits about 0.020" high. I haven't leveled the lathe yet, so I'll start there and see if that fixes the misalignment.

I did replace the terrible tool post with an Aloris BXA tool post set which came with a few nice quick change attachments.

I don't mind saving to get a better set of 3 and 4 jaw chucks that will fit the lathe. I just have no idea what to get.

Nez (Bamban) did text me last night and told me what kind of way oil to get so I'll get some of that ordered up licekety split.

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It sounds like you have a project on your hands. It seems like it has seen some neglect over the years but some TLC should give you a decent machine. Good luck with it!
 
Is it possible to purchase a collet style chuck for this lathe?

I'd be willing to save my pennies for a high quality 3 and 4 jaw chuck as well. I do need the ability to hold pieces as small as 1/4".

Tony.
 
Get an ER40 collet chuck, and buy a set of ER40 collets and you are good to go, these are even the adjustable type to dial the workpiece

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You should be able to adapt either a 5C collet chuck or an ER collet chuck to your spindle. The 5C collets cover a slightly larger range but require more collets to cover the range. An ER 32 will take you out to about 3/4" while the ER 40 will go to just over an inch. 5C collets are also available for square and hex stock, along with machinable collets for special needs.
 
Perhaps the 5C to turn the 1.1” barrels? The ER40 only goes to 1”.
 
I would get a “good” 3-jaw chuck and postpone the collet set-up procurement. That’s my 3 cents…Dave
 
Perhaps the 5C to turn the 1.1” barrels? The ER40 only goes to 1”.
Socket depth on 5C collets larger than 1" dia. is 1-1/4". I would use a four jaw and dial it in.
 
I agree with RJ, a set thru would be great all around chuck. I have a Gators 6 inch 6J, and a Rohm of the same configuration, Love them. Tony wants to go down 1/8 inch OD workpiece, both those chuck I have would not go down to 1/8.

Maybe 6 inch 3J set thru would suit him, don't own one, don't know what would be smallest diameter they would close on.
 
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