My Pair of South Bends - starting out now.

graham-xrf

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I have two South Bends, a 9C, and a 9A. I have only just started doing anything with them now. Who knew I would ever be getting into this? I take the plunge because after what I have read in this forum, I know there is enough help here. They are an SB-9A, purchased for the US equivalent of £525, and also the green SB-9C with under-drive on a blue bench with spare 4-jaw chucks, and drawers full of various tooling, purchased for $147 (not kidding)! The 9C has been stored for a couple of years, covered in oil, and under covers. The 9A is the recent purchase, because I wanted the quick-change gearbox and power cross-feed, and had been looking out for one to come up. I had thought that one lathe might, at worst, end up as a parts donor for the other. As things are turning out, it looks like neither is so bad as to deserve ending up as a parted out scrap.

I am not sure I would go mad attempting a full restoration job on both. At the least, they will get cleaned up, damage fixed, new wicks, etc. and made to run again. Given the crazy price I shelled out for one of them, it would not be so bad if, in the end, I keep one and sell the other.

In this forum, there are great pictures of restored machines, all clearly loved. Not yet for me! At least for now, I expect to be posting some not-so-pretty "before" pictures of how things are right now. There is yukky dirt, corrosion, and neglect. I will rely on forum advice. If something can be saved, then OK. If it is junk, and a mistake, then also OK - it gets junked!

Start with a couple of pictures of the lathes. The 9A does have a chuck, but I had already taken it off. This iron is heavy! I could just about lift the only heavy end slightly off the floor, so it had to be "divide and conquer". Once I had got it down to the lathe bed + feet sans gearbox, headstock, etc. I could lift it up onto bench. Already in my mind is a future need I had not anticipated. If I am going to be hauling heavy iron stuff around, I have to think about some crane gadget to help me do it!

South Bend 9C.jpg
The 9C is still all oiled up and under covers.

The 9A was still on the garage floor.
SB9A original condition (a).jpg
9A is covered in dirt and chips, and my heart sank a bit when I could see the dinged up ways by the chuck, and then I got a look up the quill. Someone had drilled out part of the #MT2 taper, I guess as part of an effort to extract a stuck taper - or something. That stuff, with pictures, is in my previous thread.

9A The first wipe-down and inspection
OK - warts and all, here it is. The dirt turned out to be an oil-soaked yuk of dust and rust - but yay! The key word was OIL!
A bit embarrassed I already be feeling! This is from under the headstock

SB9A-stripdown-under-headstock1.jpg

It starts to look better. I cannot catch a fingernail on any wear ridge. There is a slight shine on the top and bottom edge extremes of the inverted V-ways, but they seem "flat" just to feel, or look at.

SB9A-stripdown1a-lathe-bed-before.jpg

I know I am not the tidiest dude, but I am realizing I had better become a whole lot better about it. I will not be able to make this work unless the surroundings are cleaner and everything is more organized. Already I am pushed to clear out most of the garage accumulations, not least because the entire garage area has to undergo some building operations and be finished properly. There comes a point where temporarily, all these efforts be carefully labelled and put away, so that all the new environment can happen. I've been saving for it for years, and lathe fun takes second place!

Even though the first cleanup was only a cursory effort, using some WD40, because it is mostly kerosene with some floor polish, and it cuts through the grime, I could not resist a first (fast) shot at discovering the wear and general condition. It leads to the first question.

headstock-ways2a.jpg

Whey are the scrapings on the front V-way adjacent the headstock worn away?
It is not surface that ever sees the saddle ride over it. Compared to the other ways at that end of the lathe, it stands out.

You can see that in the region right under the chuck, there are the usual dings. There is some incipient rust - a little "browning". Not serious deep rust, just evidence the lathe had been stored awhile with the saddle not moved. By now I am noting the (lack of) serious wear. It looks like it had bit of a hard and abusive life over a relatively short period, and then was stood unused for years.

We try a first "measurement".
A "reverse" measurement where we find the sag of the saddle relative to a supposedly "unworn" surface.
First, very gently I ran a flat fine India stone over the surfaces. Two long strokes, and I checked for dings and burrs sticking up by using a piece of ex-mirror thick glass pressed against the ways, and I look through it as it displaces oil.

I consider using the tops of the V-ways. I dare say they would do, but they look kind of "rounded" in places. I choose the scraped flat between the ways. I think that bit might be used by the tailstock, but the tailstock does not normally visit this far left of the middle.

I worry that the saddle might be riding on the little brass retainers around the V-shaped way-wiper felts. There seemed to no clearance, so I removed them. Then I just went ahead with it. Despite that my Dad once told me the only way to stay confident of a measurement was to "do it only once", all this is going to be done again later - and better!

measure_wear1a.jpg

So what happened? I start with the indicator zeroed on the flat between the V-ways. The indicator can see 0.0005"
I can guess it between to about 0.0002" All stays zero until we get away from the surfaces under the headstock.

The saddle then "drops" about 0.0008 at first, and makes it to about -0.0012" before it eventually climbs back to zero..
It stays more or less at the "low" point until we get the saddle moved back to where the tailstock normally lives, which is where the needle returned to zero. The variation stays within about 4 tenths (meaning +/- 0.0002), around the level about 0.001" low, all the way over the "used and worn" region.

This seems to me to be not very much, and maybe I am fooling myself by using the surface I did. They all might be going down and up together(?) The whole thing will be done again until I am really sure of everything. I left out a whole scene involving the 4 arc-seconds level (0.02mm/metre). That too must be done better!

In passing , I briefly tried out the backlash in the cross-slide and compound. There is a tiny bit, but not a whole several degrees worth! Reading on the graduations, perhaps a couple of divisions before the slide moves the "other" way.

Except for the abused quill, for which we can "borrow" one from the 9C, I am thinking the 9A, under all the grime, and forgiving the dings, is maybe not so bad. Clearly it went through a period where it was somewhat unloved, and had a really abusive experience involving the quill, but the actual working life seems to have been relatively short. A clean-up, a new wicks kit, and any damage fixed, and it gets put together right, may yield an OK machine. A real working thing from the 1940's that hopefully works just fine.

Serial Number is 130147 with a "J.A.N." inscribed to the right.
I should not get ahead of myself here. We have yet to go through the gearbox, and for all I know, the motor might just hum and make sparks and smoke! I am not even thinking clearly yet about the day I might post much nicer pictures of the working machine

There is already lots of information on this site on how to do exactly what I am trying. Even so, feel free to comment and make suggestions. I am pleased to take any help I can get.
 
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That's a whole lot of information about your new machines. And a whole lot more for you to discover. I am not going to offer suggestions as you seem to have a basic grasp of what to do, and honestly, I don't think I am qualified to make any suggestions yet. I have the same lathe. A later model with counter shaft, but still basically the same. I will however comment on the price. You definitely suck, getting that kind of deal.
Good Luck, and I will follow along.

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I too will enjoy following along on this one. A true indication of bed wear is done with a known straight shaft, t.g.p. is a good item to use to get you closer measurements. The shaft needs to go between centers and the indicator mounted to the saddle and then indicate all along the shaft to find the highs and lows. I think you will probably find greater variances with this method. I am also told that the rollers inside a dead computer printer are very accurate to use for the task as well. I have never tried the printer roller but I may.
 
I have the same lathe. A later model with counter shaft, but still basically the same. I will however comment on the price. You definitely suck, getting that kind of deal.
Good Luck, and I will follow along.
 
craptain: OK - nice to have you along.
I did not yet show anything of the motor(s) and countershaft assemblies. Both lathes do have them. The one for the 9C is in a bracket designed for it that hangs under the bench. The drive for the 9A goes in the usual place topside behind the headstock. I have a whole bunch of questions about shafts and belt types, but I had to start somewhere, and I figured we would cross that bridge when we get to it.

Wow, but that motor with all it's pulleys and all was heavy! It's a big thing. Maybe when I get a closer look, I might find it was an "upgrade". There has been some discussion about motor powers, but I have to look up the threads again. I think some were 1/4 HP. Some were 1/2 HP. The 10K or "Light 10" was like the 9" series, except for the bigger spindle and clearance to the ways. Most other parts were the same. The Heavy 10 very likely needed a bigger motor.
I will get into all that eventually, as I start to deploy those parts.

As to the 9C price. Sure - it was a great buy, but I cannot feel too smug about it. It came from the perils of browsing the eBay site with a pal after a nice dinner + 2.5 drinks! DO NOT DO THIS! The auction was in it's last hours, and still at £99 UKP. We expected there would be rush near the end, but we thought to try a bid. I put in a max and I was immediately outbid. At least the winner would not be paying peanuts. I left it there, not a dime spent!
The surprise came next morning in an email from eBay. Something had gone wrong, the winner bid cancelled, and the bids unwound back to mine. I was given the chance to refuse, but it was a no-brainer! I paid up immediately, and only afterward thought to check the distance to the pickup. 94 miles away it was, + my wife was disapproving over the whole episode! You guys in the USA may not think that is very much, but here, tackling the South M25 traffic to get across the Thames at Dartford, and drive into Essex is significant! I needed my pal, and his white van. We have to add the journey cost and lunches to the price of the lathe.

The sellers turned out to be relatives of the lathe owner, who had died, and they were disposing of his stuff.
 
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I too will enjoy following along on this one. A true indication of bed wear is done with a known straight shaft, t.g.p. is a good item to use to get you closer measurements. The shaft needs to go between centers and the indicator mounted to the saddle and then indicate all along the shaft to find the highs and lows. I think you will probably find greater variances with this method. I am also told that the rollers inside a dead computer printer are very accurate to use for the task as well. I have never tried the printer roller but I may.
woodtickgreg: OK - thanks for the suggestion. Its a guess for me, but decoding "t.g.p"?? OK - that has to be "turned, ground, polished". A test bar!

Two kinds of these I recently discovered. One is the kind with a #MTx taper to suit the spindle without the chuck on it, and you use an indicator fixed to the lathe, and then lathe saddle, and indicate to the rotating precision test bar.

The other kind is a bar you can turn, maybe 300mm long, or as long as you like, with a centre at the tailstock end, and most of the middle region cut away, like a dumbbell. You turn a fine cut off the end parts and measure each with a micrometer to reveal any tailstock misalignment or bed twists. This would not be useful to measure wear in the ways.

To show up bed wear, I guess you fix the indicator base to the cross slide, and keep indicating to the underside of the precision bar, this for several positions of the saddle along the bed. I am guessing the relationship between the length of the t.g.p. bar and the cost is probably somewhat non-linear!

Er.. I know the link will evaporate in the future - but for now..

OK then - maybe not too bad. How long need it be to measure bed wear?

So now you got me thinking about the number of good test bars I have dumped in taking defunct printers to the local garbage tip, here called "household recycling & waste management centre"!

Just to throw in another picture amid all this text, I did get the Ilion "Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe 9" Model A, B & C Plus Model 10k". The clean copy is covered with clear adhesive plastic, and kept upstairs. I make printer scan copies of the pages needed to use down in the garage. The pictures are all taken with a Samsung smartphone, which can give the leadscrew a bit of a "curved" look.

Renovation Guide Pages(a).jpg

This last picture recording the apron, supported on wood blocks, now without screws, and the square head bolt coming off. Note the cross slide dial. Yank it hard, push it back. The backlash is tiny. I understand it is a bad thing to have zero backlash, because you cannot tell where the beginning of movement is, to then set the next cut depth.

SB9A-undo-apron(a).jpg

That's all for the present. I will post more when I have taken it apart more.
 
That is a very unusual 9C you have there. I have NEVER seen an under mounted drive for one. I wonder if it was a former user mod somewhere down the line, though it does look factory.
 
That is a very unusual 9C you have there. I have NEVER seen an under mounted drive for one. I wonder if it was a former user mod somewhere down the line, though it does look factory.
SLK001: Hi there.. and you have started me down a fill scale identification issue. I have been calling it a "9C" because everything about it looks like a 9C e.g. the apron, etc. All 9" SB lathes A, B, C could be had with any of the 4 drive choices offered.
There was..
a) A six-speed horizontal drive.
b) A twelve-speed horizontal drive
c) A V-belt pulley version for eight or 16 speeds.
d) Underneath motor drive, which could do the same choices as the horizontal drive.

The thing is, there were earlier 9" lathes that had many features that looked just like the 9A, 9B, 9C 10k series, and there was an underneath drive bracket specifically designed to be bolted under a bench.

The UK website..
http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/ and http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/

.. has probably the most complete explanations. I had to use "Ctrl +" a couple of times to bring up the tiny font, and it has a navigation system at the top of every page, to get used to.

There are pictures down the lower part of the first link showing exactly the arrangement I have, but it is shown on a type called "workshop", and it has a differently shaped gear guard than on mine. The same underneath drive, it seems, could be used to power a variety of models up on the bench.

South Bend also messed with the model names a lot!
What made a "Toolroom" model different from regular versions was providing a handwheel draw-in collet chuck (without any collets), a collet rack, a taper attachment, a thread dial indicator, a thread cutting stop, a large faceplate, and a "micrometer carriage stop". In the end, they quietly dropped all the names except the "Precision" model, because it sounded better. That did not mean they suddenly started selling it with all options as standard (Japanese-style). I think it meant all options were extra. Come to that, so was even the motor!

I think my green thing looks and quacks like a 9C. The shapes of the feet under the bed can give away the differences between models 405 and model 15 compared to the 9A or 9C.

Easy to get confused. This picture is of a model 405, albeit horizontal drive. I can see the 4 screws on my "green thing" where the switch mounted, but there are differences. Spot the tailstock with the see-through window. My tailstock has a solid web. For now, I stick with "9C", but you got me thinking!

Model 405 restored
img38.jpg
 
That is a very unusual 9C you have there. I have NEVER seen an under mounted drive for one. I wonder if it was a former user mod somewhere down the line, though it does look factory.
I have never seen one either. The cabinet looks home built, but very well made. The headstock has to be factory. Perhaps it's a frankenlathe. Assembled from a 9a and 9c parts.

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Graham, you slipped in while I was typing.
I just sold a 405,with horizontal drive. It was factory original, as verified by the copy of the build card from Grizzly. My later 9a is original except for the motor. You can order a copy of the build card from Grizzly for $25. Not worth it for most people but I wanted to know.

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