My PM-940 CNC Modifications

Just an update.... a rather good one. I have a working Power Draw Bar ! I was lucky and found a used 3 stage pneumatic cylinder on eBay for $50 with free shipping. I designed around the cylinders "significant" size which barely rubs the spindle motor when "actuated" It provides just enough force at about 100 PSI to do the job. The cylinder itself is rated for over 150 psi, however one of my goals was to use a small compressor so noise could be reduced as much as possible. I can post more details however, credit for the general design belongs to Sam ( link to his Power Draw Bar videos ). I also relied on his advice on a number of things along the way. Be sure to check out his videos here :

Attached are a few pictures and a couple short videos of my Power Draw bar in action.

Cheers,

Jake

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Wow man, this is looking super nice. I'm going to have to start peaking at Flebay more often to see if I can score a cylinder like that!

How do you have it wired/plumbed? I was thinking the best way to control it would be though the Acorn, as in a button to the Acorn then the Acorn output actually releases the tool. Then the Acorn could decided if it should actually release to tool or not, as in if it's choochin' at 5k RPM not a good time to release the tool. I'm kinda assuming the Acorn is capable of this.

PZ
 
Wow man, this is looking super nice. I'm going to have to start peaking at Flebay more often to see if I can score a cylinder like that!

How do you have it wired/plumbed? I was thinking the best way to control it would be though the Acorn, as in a button to the Acorn then the Acorn output actually releases the tool. Then the Acorn could decided if it should actually release to tool or not, as in if it's choochin' at 5k RPM not a good time to release the tool. I'm kinda assuming the Acorn is capable of this.

PZ

It has been a bit of a long winding road to get it to work. I hope to outline the entire project when I'm sure it works as it should, consistently, and then I'll provide the details. I think I made enough errors and experienced most of the possible pitfalls that it should help others from making the same mistakes. In just the last day or two I am to the point where it works ok, I think ! lol. One of the main things that hindered me over the last couple weeks was the solenoid that directs air to the cylinder ( for retraction and extension ) was faulty. I bought a "Fastek" from ebay that somewhere stated it was made in the good ole USA. Well, although that may be true, I find it unlikely because it so closely resembles all the clones from China ( and I mean it really looks like a rolex copy... from 5 feet you would say they are the same ). Perhaps a company in the USA just assembled the parts here ? I don't know, but the one I have is not a good product and I will be looking for a refund. Ultimately, I ended up "re-purchasing" another brand ( for the same cost $29 ) which is the same ( Airtac- made in Tawian supposedly ) as Sam / CNC4XR7 used (the youtube which I referenced above.) I believe he used another thread size / pitch, however. This is what I have : Airtac brand Air Pneumatic Solenoid Valve 2 position 5 way 1/4" 4V310-08-B-DC24V
I have it wired with a switch to manually actuate it. The switch is NO so it won't release the tool until its manually powered by me to do so. Personally, I would only have Acorn actuate it if I had a tool changer. That is a future project that I hope to get to, but I kind of doubt the Acorn has the capability of that anyway. One of Centroids other , more expensive, DIY controller cards does have this capability since it is a closed loop controller capable of reading absolute servo position. There may be ways around having absolute position for a tool changer but it seems like it would be more of a headache to implement. That being said, I haven't really looked into it much.

So basically the solenoid , in its normal un-powered state allows air flow to the cylinders retract piston which makes sure the piston won't push out at all due to gravity. Even if it did protrude on its own, it cannot provide enough force to compress the "belleville" spring washers to release the TTS tool holder. When the solenoid is actuated by the switch, the solenoid redirects the air flow to the ( 3 stage cylinder ) ( instead of to only one of the cylinders to retract ) to compress the belleville washers. Some multi stage cylinders have an air port for each stage but this one has internal "ducting" so added external hoses daisy chaining them isn't needed. I suppose this is only negative in that one could , if they wanted to, reduce the number of active pistons to reduce the power of the cylinder.

I mean to give all the details and part numbers for the entire project but I want to know its working 100%. So I will, in more detail, outline the pitfalls I experienced so others won't have to experience them. If you watch the video I posted I kind of edited out a flaw. So if you look closely, there is a delay from the time I actuate the switch to the time the cylinder actually pushes the piston out. This is caused by the faulty solenoid ! The solenoid would sometimes have a short short delay, but other times it would get very very long... as long as 8 seconds after powering it via the switch. As well, it appears it somehow was restricting air flow. At this time I don't know how much, but it seems as though it was not giving the full 100psi to the cylinder. As soon as I changed the solenoid to the Airtac brand, the cylinder seemed to produce the needed force to release the tool with only 50 psi and would be instant when flipping the switch.

I need to remake two items that I had to make on my little crappy 9x30 ? harbor freight lathe I got years back for $500 new. ( I really need a better lathe ! ) Why, because currently the drawbar nut and belleville washers show signs of a wobble so I need to re-do the nut and clamping "top cap" to fit a bit tighter on the spindle shaft. Its tricky to make it loose enough so it won't bind, but tight enough that it won't be unbalanced / wobble. The lathe has cross slides that are so sloppy the cutting bits chatter and grab making perfect cuts inconsistent and rough too. Any suggestions on lathe's are appreciated. I've considered another Precision Mathews lathe but with the current tariff war the PM 1340's are over $5k. I missed out on a south bend lathe locally for under $1k recently, which likely would have been a good option... but that's another story altogether.....

On another note, I have another spindle encoder option coming in the next month or two to test. If it works well, it is ideal for the PM940 with belt drive if one wants to do rigid tapping. Should be under $200 in total but very reliable and consistent.

Best,

Jake
 
I was thinking it would be a matter of safety to have the signal go through the Acorn. Ideally it would keep the cylinder from firing if the spindle was on...

I have seen some threads about ATCs and Acorn, and it works on the lathes... so I would imagine it can be done on mills too.

I'm looking forward to your full post. I just got all the parts I need to get mine running again yesterday, and hoping to get it all going again in the next two weeks. Once it's up and running I have some small projects, but then I want to get after the PDB and possibly and automatic 2 speed setup.

My friend has a Grizzly G4003G and it's very nice. He added a DRO after the fact, and IMO it's a critical update for a lathe.

PZ
 
I was thinking it would be a matter of safety to have the signal go through the Acorn. Ideally it would keep the cylinder from firing if the spindle was on...

I have seen some threads about ATCs and Acorn, and it works on the lathes... so I would imagine it can be done on mills too.

I'm looking forward to your full post. I just got all the parts I need to get mine running again yesterday, and hoping to get it all going again in the next two weeks. Once it's up and running I have some small projects, but then I want to get after the PDB and possibly and automatic 2 speed setup.

My friend has a Grizzly G4003G and it's very nice. He added a DRO after the fact, and IMO it's a critical update for a lathe.

PZ

Thanks for the lathe suggestion, looks nice for sure and a good size for me. Its not an urgent thing since I'm still trying to focus on the mill so I doubt I'll jump on any lathe just yet.

May I ask what you are doing to your mill currently that has it "down" ? Automatic 2 speed setup ? interesting !

Ok, I see what you are saying wrt the PDB only actuating if the Acorn allows it while the spindle is not turning. I'll search for some threads about ATC to see how people are achieving it. I assume through a relay. I just kind of figured if a mechanical switch was inline it would be safest ( like an E-stop , if no power is getting to the solenoid, its default position is that it cannot fire ).

I'll will be detailing the PDB project as soon as I get to test out the holding strength on my next project which should be in next week.

Cheers,

Jake
 
You certainly may ask.

I got tired of the noise coming from the gear train int he head so I yanked it all apart to put a belt drive on it. Pretty sure that was in April... Anyway, getting ready for a kid, and having a kid, I haven't got her up and running again. Life has been settling a bit so I have has some time to work on it. I also have a servo motor that I'm going to use as a spindle motor, that should get me more RPM than the thing can actually handle, but we'll see.

As for the automatic two speed... If it works it will be very cool, though I need to do more research to see if Acorn can select gears, but I'm pretty sure it can.

PZ
 
Well, having a kid is surely life changing but for me, without a kid, going from gear train noise to none, THAT was life changing :). The servo motor as a spindle seems to be a really elegant solution too. You are sure to be happy with these mods, I know the noise drove me nuts so just that alone was worth doing.

Cheers,
Jake
 
Hey Guys,
Jake that looks really good. Man, I've been out of it for a while. I haven't been getting any email from the forum that there's been any activity. I'm going to have to check into that. I have some catching up to do. Got side tracked with some other projects....

Regards,

Doug
 
Hey Guys,

I'm hopeful someone with the (pm940) quill still operational can do me a favor by measuring the diameter of the spindle. My thought is to replace my spindle with one of the standard sized ( usually 80 and 100mm it seems ) spindles. I imagine it would need an adapter sleeve.

Because my spindle is locked down due to a pulley system modification I cannot easily extend it ( no quill action ) without some significant disassembly.


What has peaked my interest in spindle options is this youtube video :
Its a 24000 rpm spindle. I assume it would not be adequate for low rpm use required for rigid tapping, but thats one of the few negatives about going this direction.

I'm also curious about the type of taper to go with, so that's a subject of its own. With the fall and winter here turning sour here in the Pacific Northwest its pushing my interests back to the mill project :)

Hope all is well with the PM940 gang !

Jake
 
Hey Jake,
I still have my quill setup. I'll measure it for you when I get home tonight. Good to hear from you. Haven't talked to you guys for a while. Shout out to you too PZ.

Doug
 
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