- Joined
- Jan 29, 2017
- Messages
- 311
Here's a shot of my compound slide.
It has a Chinese QCTP which I fitted. Note extra gib adjuster screws. There are 5. The 6th is not for pushing the gib key over. I'm going to drill and tap the gib key so the function of this screw is to stop it sliding back and forth instead of relying on a slot that's machined across the face of the gib. Currently the original gib is installed, its made out of cast iron. I'm going to replace it with a brass unit in a while. The horizontal mating faces have been scraped which made it much smoother to operate. The dovetails will have to wait until I can fabricate a scraper small enough to fit in.
I also had to file the daylights out of the gib key as it was forcing the upper slide to lose contact when I adjusted the gib screws (only on the screw side). I feel the cause of this was the adjusting screws were situated too high in combination with no dimples for the grub screws to ride in and help push the gib key into its correct position. So the gib was hit with a dremel fitted with a 4mm diamond ball burr and a domed recess ground out where the adjusting screws contacted. The grub screws were replaced with new ones which I had machined a ball end onto. Much better control of adjustment now and travel action is now smooth and consistent with no jumping back on interrupted cuts.
Here's a shot of my gib key installed.
Notice how the original gib key doesn't even fill its slot, that's a measured gap of 2.8mm/0.110" that should be filled to within a few thou clearance for adjustment and easy assembly/dismantling. Future job.
I've also made a front dovetail cover out of aluminum and a seal to keep crap out and oil in, you can see it in the photos. A rear one is still to be made.
It has a Chinese QCTP which I fitted. Note extra gib adjuster screws. There are 5. The 6th is not for pushing the gib key over. I'm going to drill and tap the gib key so the function of this screw is to stop it sliding back and forth instead of relying on a slot that's machined across the face of the gib. Currently the original gib is installed, its made out of cast iron. I'm going to replace it with a brass unit in a while. The horizontal mating faces have been scraped which made it much smoother to operate. The dovetails will have to wait until I can fabricate a scraper small enough to fit in.
I also had to file the daylights out of the gib key as it was forcing the upper slide to lose contact when I adjusted the gib screws (only on the screw side). I feel the cause of this was the adjusting screws were situated too high in combination with no dimples for the grub screws to ride in and help push the gib key into its correct position. So the gib was hit with a dremel fitted with a 4mm diamond ball burr and a domed recess ground out where the adjusting screws contacted. The grub screws were replaced with new ones which I had machined a ball end onto. Much better control of adjustment now and travel action is now smooth and consistent with no jumping back on interrupted cuts.
Here's a shot of my gib key installed.
Notice how the original gib key doesn't even fill its slot, that's a measured gap of 2.8mm/0.110" that should be filled to within a few thou clearance for adjustment and easy assembly/dismantling. Future job.
I've also made a front dovetail cover out of aluminum and a seal to keep crap out and oil in, you can see it in the photos. A rear one is still to be made.
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