Need Advice On Machining Arbor

3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck on the lathe?
Brino, I am working on a 4 jaw chuck, That would make it easier to make this part I'm sure.

It will be a few days before its done, after changing the size of the lathe spindle, most parts I made in the past wont fit..
That 3 jaw I use isnt the most accurate as i'm sure you know.
 
Not doubting anything, but wont it need to be swapped end for end to do the .625 shaft hole and the other end for the bolt hole..?

No. The bolt hole is not critical, just through drill with the tap size drill and tap from the 5/8 side, then after everything else is done, open up the bolt hole in that piece.
 
Bore the 5/8" hole first. After that, chuck up a piece of steel bigger than 5/8" and turn a 5/8 dia. on it simulating the motor spindle. You then can mount your arbor to the simulated motor spindle that is in the chuck and turn the 2nd. end and drill and tap your hole. Your finished arbor will then run true when mounter on your motor.

Also, make the shoulder on your arbor the full depth of thickness of your wheel minus about .005" / .010" and don't put a shoulder on your "cap". This will give you the largest surface to locate your wheel on. The cap only keeps the wheel on, it doesn't locate it.

Just my $.02
Richard
 
Yes, i can see it now, sorry, sometimes it takes me awhile, this brain has been through hell for at least 67 years..

I know what you mean, for me it's 71 years o_O
 
I have copied all the great instruction from all you guys to go into my special folder called:

SIMPLE SH-T I DONT GET, but really, years ago I sure wouldn't ask someone for help, but the brain declines like ddicky and I.

I gets very frustrating sometimes when I know how something should be done but just cant get that Kick Start of the brain to put the pieces together correctly.

I really appreciate the time you guys spend to help me, I cant say that for some other machining site..

Going to sleep on all this tonight and get started tomorrow.

Thanks Again,
Tim
 
Bore the 5/8" hole first. After that, chuck up a piece of steel bigger than 5/8" and turn a 5/8 dia. on it simulating the motor spindle. You then can mount your arbor to the simulated motor spindle that is in the chuck and turn the 2nd. end and drill and tap your hole. Your finished arbor will then run true when mounter on your motor.

Also, make the shoulder on your arbor the full depth of thickness of your wheel minus about .005" / .010" and don't put a shoulder on your "cap". This will give you the largest surface to locate your wheel on. The cap only keeps the wheel on, it doesn't locate it.

Just my $.02
Richard
Thanks Richard, that simulated spindle sound like a neat way to do it..
 
Thanks Richard, that simulated spindle sound like a neat way to do it..

I use that technique fairly often, with good results. Always happy to pass on the things that I have learned through the course of my working career.
 
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