Need Help: Choosing a mill

[MyLilMule]

I am just getting started in machinery, I don't even have my lathe in a working condition. But I KNOW I will be adding a mill to my home hobby workshop within the next year. I've ruled out buying something brand new (budgetary) and don't mind something a little more vintage (old school is cool school) and have ruled out any kind of mill/drill and am only considering knee mills with power feed options.

My questions surround just which mills should I look for and which ones should I avoid? I know very little about them and am just beginning to do the research.

A few points to keep in mind when offering your input:

• It's for my home hobby shop, not a full time production shop, second job, etc. (I won't make ANY money from it)
• I have no interest in CNC at this time
• I don't mind a refurbishment project (my 1941 13" South Bend is getting refreshed, NOT rebuilt to factory specs)
• I don't care about collectibility or any of that
• I DO care about availability and AFFORDABILITY of replacement parts
• I currently don't have 3 phase of any kind
• I'm NOT looking to make super precision parts for Space-X
• I don't have buckets of hundos waiting to be spent on frivolous adventures

With all that lot in mind, I will basically be looking for a mill that would be priced reasonably, in usable condition, but might need a little love here and there and would be easy enough for a novice to tackle. I am sure there are some models or configurations that someone like me should avoid, and ones that I should snap up if I see it. Are there different tool holding options I should avoid, one kind of collet vs. another, etc.? Are there certain types that are harder or more expensive to fix? Are there ones that came configured for, or can be converted to, single phase 220 easy enough or did they all come from the factory needing 3 phase (via direct/converter/VFD)?

I'm specifically thinking about Bridgeport (or one of the clones) as those, at least on the surface, seem to be most popular. The name on the badge means little to me, except for the aforementioned reasons above (availability and affordability) - I saw a YouTube video of someone trying to restore a mill and the pulleys would have been $4,000 a piece had he not found what he needed on eBay - I don't want to take that kind of trip.

Thanks in advance. Not sure if there is a link or document somewhere already existing that might cover the differences. But knowing which configuration most fits my desires is going to be the most helpful.

 

[Winegrower]

Your thinking is impeccable, mule. I think Bridgeport and clones are the best deal, the biggest availability of parts, the most available accessories, biggest work envelope, most training videos, and best available support. Get the cleanest you can afford, don't be afraid of 3 phase motors, just get an inexpensive Phase-a-Matic converter and start making chips.

 

[MyLilMule]

I'm not afraid of 3 phase, at all. But single phase 220 is one less thing I have to worry about. If I have to go 3 phase, it's fine.

Getting one I can afford is one thing. But what I don't want to do is to find out that one has some obscure collet closer and it'd cost more to replace it that the machine is worth, if you get my example. What's the most popular and affordable tool holding system?

For example, my SB lathe has a 1-7/8"-8 spindle thread. Not popular. Impossible to find chucks for it. Or things like taper attachments that must be made of gold or unicorn snot. lol. I'm enjoying the lathe rebuild project, but unlikely it will be my last lathe, or if it even stays very long, as I am going to find not having a steady rest or a larger spindle bore, etc., to be the limiting factor. I could sell it and buy something else WITH all that stuff for less money than to add it.

 

[Winegrower]

Bridgeports use R8 collets which are inexpensive, widely available, and work fine. Lots of more specialized tool holders are available as R8 as well. You can't do better.

Best wishes.

 

[Aukai]

I'm wondering what brands, and how they stack up too. BP seem to get the most attention, but what about Webb, Lagun, Sharp, and others? I have read, and it has been said that others may be more robust, for the same size. I have no practical knowledge, and hope that there is some discussion.

 

[benmychree]

I had an Induma mill (Italian) it had the R8 spindle, was about the same size as a BP and a bit heavier, it was a good machine.

 

[Norseman C.B.]

BP clones are for the most part just as good and some are better.
I have an ACRA clone and am very happy with it, the performance is right on par with BP
but I would avoid machines with non R-8 spindles due to cost .........

 

[benmychree]

BP clones are for the most part just as good and some are better.
I have an ACRA clone and am very happy with it, the performance is right on par with BP
but I would avoid machines with non R-8 spindles due to cost .........

I used my Induma mill for many years with its R8 spindle, then bought a Fray vertical mill with NMTB 30 taper spindle, I found lots of tool holders for it on E Bay for quite reasonable prices, I like it much better than R8 because it is easier to change due to its shorter length and steep taper, and it is also used on my #2 B&S mill's universal head and also, with a 40 - 30 adaptor can be used in the main (horizontal) spindle.

 

[Norseman C.B.]

Not knockin NMTB tooling, used a lot of it when I was employed just sayin that it is more common
to the hobby machinist circles .........................

 

[benmychree]

Not knockin NMTB tooling, used a lot of it when I was employed just sayin that it is more common
to the hobby machinist circles .........................

Yes, true, but a machine may present itself with a 30 taper spindle for a bargain price, and as I said 30 taper tooling is pretty plentiful on e bay at reasonable prices.