If you don't need Forward / Reverse, then you only need to decide what type of Start - Stop feature you want.The usual options are:
- A two-position, maintained contact, rotary switch (On - Off)
- Two momentary push buttons (one for Start and one for Stop)
The "Macro" you select determines which of the above you use. If you like the traditional "drum switch" feel that is on older machinery, then use the rotary switch. If you like the "panic button" feature of the push buttons, then use that set-up. In either case, you don't need external relays or voltage - the drive supplies everything you need to run the switches. You can get push buttons in a wide range of prices and quality. Try McMaster-Carr and search for "push button switches" to see a wide selection of PB switches. +24V on the control terminal board goes to the remote switch(es). The switches come back to the drive on "DI1" (term 7) on the drive (and DI2 if you are using the 2 button option). "Gnd" and "DCOM" are jumpered together to use in on-board power system.For speed control, you want to run in 10V mode - set S1(switch 1) in the "U" position to select this mode. For the speed control pot, you want a single turn, LINEAR, wire-wound pot. A 5000 (5K) ohm pot is typically used (1K is the minimum that the drive can support). Be sure the pot is linear (not audio which is a log profile). You want a pot without a switch inside. You should be able to get a panel mount pot with dial for $10 or so. I prefer wire wound over carbon, but you get to pick. ABB doesn't show how to connect the pot in their literature (they think this drive will be used with a 4-20 mA output or a 0-10VDC output), but they have the +10VDC power available on the control terminal strip labeled "+10v". The two "ends" of the pot are wired to "+10v" and to the "Gnd" (NEXT to "+10V"). The wiper of the pot is connected to "AI" (analog input) terminal. If the pot ends up delivering speed increase in the wrong direction, just reverse the +10v and GND connections to the pot. McMaster Carr only has switched pots (I think), so you may want to look somewhere else for a pot. If you have a favorite electronics supply, try there. Otherwise search Amazon for dozens of low cost pots.You will need a small electrical enclosure for the switch(es) and the pot. This is all low voltage, so a simple, shop made box is acceptable. It probably only needs to be 4x4x4" or so. The main feature is that the box needs to keep out swarf and dust.You will want to run shielded cable between the drive and the remote control box. You will need a total of 6 conductors. Where I live, Home Depot has shielded, 6 conductor, 18 ga cable available "by the foot" so you don't need to buy a whole spool to get 10 feet. You can also run two parallel grounded cables if you cannot find 6 conductors in a cable. Ground the cable shield on the "SCR" (signal cable shield) terminal on the drive only. Do not ground the shield on the remote box with the switch and pot. At this end, trim the shield back and tape it so that it does not contact the box or any other grounded part which could set up a troublesome "ground loop."The ABB manual is going to tell you to run shielded power cables as well. The shielded cable is expensive and a little hard to find. The shielded cable is for industrial use with long (100 feet or so) cable runs with sensitive control electronics in the vicinity. For a home installation, with short leads (10 ft or so), standard SO cable or wiring in a flex conduit can be used.If the machine has an older motor (more than 10 years or so), set the switching frequency at the lowest value (4 kHz I believe for this drive). This setting may produce some annoying motor whine, but it is the least likely to damage an older motor. This drive allows you to set the switching frequency as high as 16 kHz which older ears like mine almost cannot hear. If you do this, the drive output is derated to 75%, and there is the possibility of setting up high voltage spikes in the motor windings. Most EEs will say that voltage spikes are not an issue if the motor is designed for 460 / 230 V and is running in the 230 V connection. I have two VFDs in my shop which run at 3 kHz - I have learned to accept some motor whine as normal operation.Terry S.