Need Help with my Lathe Electrical

Calandrod

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I have an old MSC lathe that I've been using for awhile. The other day, the "forward" position quit working and then the next day or so, both reverse and forward quit. All I could hear was a humming sound. I figured it was the switch so I found the exact Taiwan replacement and ordered it. I hooked the new one up exactly like the old one was. Still nothing. I'm wondering if I maybe messed something up on the new switch or if it is the capacitors.
I have no idea how to use a multimeter but I have a nice one. I'm looking for someone that would be willing to call and help walk me through using the multimeter to verify I have the switch on there correctly. And also I am looking for guidance on what to do from here.

pictures are located here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/start-switch-for-lathe-electric-changeover-switch.109799/

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Some multimeters have a capacitor setting to check capacitors. See if yours does. Even with out a meter visually check it. Pay close attention to where the terminals are. If it’s bulging or leaking, that’s a sign that it’s gone.
 
I'll bet your start cap failed - quite common. I'd replace the start and run caps - assuming your motor has them. I'm sure your switch is fine.
 
Another vote for the motor starting capacitor. Cheap and easy to replace. I generally just replace them if there is any question. If it hasn't failed yet, it will...
 
Let's see your new switch and the diagram for it, and the labels on the wires
If motor was running before the old switch fell apart it should still be ok

If you can link to where you got the switch that would help too
A picture of the motor dataplate can't hurt either
The new switch may require some jumpers added
 
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Let's see your new switch and the diagram for it, and the labels on the wires
If motor was running before the old switch fell apart it should still be ok

If you can link to where you got the switch that would help too
A picture of the motor dataplate can't hurt either
The new switch may require some jumpers added
Here are some photos of the old switch.
 

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Let's see your new switch and the diagram for it, and the labels on the wires
If motor was running before the old switch fell apart it should still be ok

If you can link to where you got the switch that would help too
A picture of the motor dataplate can't hurt either
The new switch may require some jumpers added
Here’s the motor data plate, the housing attached to the motor, and the capacitors.
 

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The capacitor looks like it has seen better days
Dents and bulges are dead giveaway’s to poor performance
 
Here’s the new one I wired and the diagrams that were on the box.
 

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