Need information about Horseless carriage restoration

Chris, that is an interesting idea. I will pursue that approach. My biggest concern about driving is the steering. I think I will have to brace some old steel in the linkages to make it safe. There is no way to adjust caster, so I may need to machine a solution for the that so the steering is more precise. As you can probably tell I have more questions than answers. I hope to get the body off the frame next week so I can start getting a closer look at all these parts. As I do I will post more pictures and comments.
Thanks again.
 
My wife suggests that you ask for help on the Recreational Equine Driving Yahoo group and on the Carriage Driving List mailing list.
 
Google: antique horseless carriages

Lots of groups and sites. Someone out there has to be able to identify it...unless it was a one-off custom rig.

Ken
 
Does the museum want it? I wouldn't assume that they do. And they surely wouldn't want it modified.
 
Well I have looked a the carriage a little closer. This is definitely a home made job, and not the best quality. So there is little collector value. Its value is to show what people did in a time when cars could not be bought on every corner.

The engine is an aluminum 2 stroke 'drag saw' engine that appears to have been made in Eureka, CA. These were used in the days before chain saws. This thing has exposed points with manually adjustable timing from the drivers seat (used for a throttle as the carburetor is fixed). The coil appears to be a wooden boxed Ford 'buzz coil'. The clutch will have to have a lever installed to engage the chain drive. By the way, the chain has a cotter pin in each link. I have never seen a chain made this way. It does make it easy to separate!

The front axle was locked so it would not turn (as a horse drawn carriage, the whole axle turned pivoting in the center), then a turn buckle was added connected with a bent bolt in the front axle and a piece of chain to the frame. This was presumably to stop wobble but it has the axle slightly nonparallel to the front cross leaf spring suspension.
Tiller Steering connection.jpg

Then there is the steering! All turning elements are loose, so I will be machining a lot of bushings to tighten things up. I think I may have to build a new pivot for the front wheel axles to allow for caster adjustment. I will have to modify the tie rods to set toe-out.

So all of the steering improvements are based on getting it running. The existing engine will turn over so there is a hope.

I will update this listing as time goes on. All comments, suggestions and information are welcome.

Tiller Steering connection.jpg
 
Good news that it is a replica car for your purposes. Have you tried to start it? Does it turn over when you turn the fly wheel or is it locked up? I would get new fuel in it, connect the ignition wires up and try to start it as it is without rebuilding it. Maybe get some starter fluid spray to encourage it to start the first time. If you think about it this motor probably has had very little use because the car doesn't move very far, fast or often. So with the motor you could be good to go.

Maybe see how the steering is with it rolling, will be much easier to turn with the wheels moving.

With old unknown cars this is the usual strategy

1. Make it STOP
2. Make it go
3. Make it go better
4. Make it look nicer
 
There are little shops in the Amish country in Pennsylvania where wheels are made and repaired for the horse drawn wagons the Amish use. I found one years ago when driving around in the country. I have no memory of where it was though. Those wheels look just like those on Amish wagons. You probably could get rubber tires at one of those little shops too.

This shop MIGHT have been around the Lancaster area of Pennsylvania. Definitely in Pennsylvania.

You will be lucky to get 10 MPH out of that car,but be sure that you can make it STOP if something breaks. The front end steering is clever,considering the era when it was likely built. But,it is pretty fragile,too.
 
Back
Top