Need oil cap ideas...

Hi: There are a bunch of good ideas! but don't forget to be sure the cap is locked, in the air if the cap vibrates out you may loose to much oil and set the plane down faster than desired! The splash oil system and the air crossing the oil pipe will give you a quick lesson of Bernoulli's_principle of air across a surface.
just hoping to keep you around for the next forum page!
dwdw47
 
Hi: There are a bunch of good ideas! but don't forget to be sure the cap is locked, in the air if the cap vibrates out you may loose to much oil and set the plane down faster than desired! The splash oil system and the air crossing the oil pipe will give you a quick lesson of Bernoulli's_principle of air across a surface.
just hoping to keep you around for the next forum page!
dwdw47

Well here's a little update on the cap. The plane itself is getting ready to fly soon. It's covered and painted now and in the final stages of re-assembly as we speak. I find the oil cap to be the least of my concerns with the design. This is a wooden airframe that was originally drawn out by a farmer with a good understanding of, but minimal formal training in structures, circa de 1930s. My opinion? There is a reason most production manufacturers switched to more the predictable, consistent and available material, aluminum.

It's top speed is somewhere in the 75 M.P.H. range. Cruise at 65% power is way less than that. The oil cap retention via O-rings idea that we learned here and settled on, is extremely secure. Now that he's nearing completion, I count 30 or so parts I've helped build or adjust for him. The engine has about 30 hours of ground run time on it now and not so much as a wiggle from the cap. Given the limits of the top end and the design, the cap will never become the cause of an incident.

I think we've made some other significant improvements as well. All saftey margin leaps way beyond what the designer had drawn in. He's even putting brakes on this one. Back in the 1930's many airplanes just relied on the friction of the tail skid, aerodynamic drag and low idle power thrust for stopping.

My friend, the owner/builder is extremely ambitious for a 70 year old. He's hinted at an attempt to fly to and make a landing in to all 48 contiguous states, then write a book about it! The last and final part I plan to make for him is a sort of belaying device, that will enable him to release a tail tie down from inside the cockpit and take the rope with him. Since the aircraft will have to be hand propped for start, he wants to be totally self sufficient. It has no electric starter nor alternator, but yet has a full system for radios, navigation and lighting that is limited by battery charge from a solar panel or ground only recharger… I'll cast the basic "J" shape of the part and then bore and press in a bearing sleeve for the captive release pin that when actuated will allow the rope to release, exit a hole in the tail and then be retreived in the cockpit before taxi. All single handedly. I'm working on the wooden mock up this week, especially if we get that cool weather they are promising.
 
Helping a buddy with his Peitenpol... (a model "A" Ford engine powered home built aircraft). He built the sheet metal cowl around the oil filler tube. The cap just rides below a rolled lip in the cowling. The tube has a 1.5" I.D. and a simple turned aluminum plug cap that is retained by a long cotter pin running through holes in the tube. The problem is the tube is too short and dosn't stick out of the cowl far enough. Now that the cowl is built, he realizes there's no way to access and remove the cotter pin... We cant really extend or make a new tube, because it will interfere with the straight exhaust pipe that is just above the filler port and all of the other work is now done.

He's asked me about putting in a threaded aluminum bushing and then turning down and threading the existing aluminum oil cap, Making it a screw on and off affair. Particularly, the existing cap has some nice engraving that says "Oil 5 Quarts" and he'd like to retain that and orient it so that when screwed down tight it's upright.

I'm worried about cap retention and/or bumming up the threads so I told him I'd try some new turnings first to see how well he likes them and how good we can make a fit. To stay within the 1.5" I.D. however, I'm thinking the new cap will be small and the oil service hole even smaller, maybe too narrow.

There must be a better way to cap a tube?

Wouldn't the cap need to be secured by a cable so if it fell out while flying it stays with the filler tube? I like the double O ring design.
 
Wouldn't the cap need to be secured by a cable so if it fell out while flying it stays with the filler tube? I like the double O ring design.

It can't "fall out" The rubber O-rings insulate against vibration. The compresion fit is very snug. It can't 'blow out' either. Crankcase pressure is always the same as atmospheric pressure due to several vents. In normal flight attitudes, there is 12" of vertical tube plus another 4 or 5" down to the full oil surface level in the engine, so even without a cap there will be little to no oil loss due to suction or bernuili effect. It might be a mess, if the pilot were to forget or improperly reinstall the cap, but that's the same case if you forget a screw on cap.

Remember too it's an experimental homebuilt, not a certified airplane.

This was supposed to be a discussion on machining of the part not aircraft design. :))
 
A bit OT, but speaking of oil caps, I discovered Honda has had a good sense of humor, giving to one of its oil caps the code number 710

HP-15611-KA4-710.gif

HP-15611-KA4-710.gif
 
Had to google it. I guess I'm one of those people that if I worked at an automotive store counter would be scratching my head and baffled by the blonde asking for a 710 cap.

Speaking of blondes, 30 years ago I remember my sister being chastised by my father for letting her car run low on oil. "Oil? Didn't it come with oil?" came the response.
 
Since the cowl looks to be in the construction stage, my suggestion would be to put a hinged access door over the tube. There are quite a number of different fasteners that could be used to keep it shut. Dzus, Camloc, Airlock, spring loaded, etc.
 
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