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Need selector on/off switch for mill accessory power

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PT Doc

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#1
I need to create and electrical panel for my milling machine. This will mount on the machine on the back or side and will supply power to dro, powerfeeds, light. I want to have a switch and was thinking that having a simple on and off selector switch mounted near the mill’s fwd/off/rev switch would make sense. I’d like the box to be small.

Holy crap is finding a simple switch not at all simple. You have pushbutton, rocker, cam, selector.

Has anyone sourced a simple 120v selector switch with an enclosure?
I found this switch and an enclosure

https://www.zoro.com/schneider-elect...d2/i/G2849357/

https://www.zoro.com/schneider-elect...h7/i/G1328826/

I am assuming for now that this is good for 120v and not a low volt switch. I will call Zoro on Monday.

This cam switch looks like it would work but can’t an enclosure for it.

https://www.zoro.com/advance-control...0g/i/G2803561/

Another option is to drill a 22mm hole in the metal enclosure that will house the 120v outlets and just bend over or around the machine to turn on all the 120v goodies.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

markba633csi

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#2
What about a simple toggle switch? You can buy an inexpensive plastic enclosure at Home Depot and put the whole thing
together for like 20$ or less. You could also use a conventional house wall switch (cheap cheap cheap)
I would never pay 30$ for a switch but then I'm a tightwad and a hoarder
Mark
 

f350ca

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#4
Panel switches get expensive. That first one you linked to is just an actuator, you have to add contact blocks to the back of it. Just bought a simple set of on / off buttons that were the same design.

Greg
 

Bi11Hudson

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#5
Your "switch" shown is merely an actuator. There are "blocks" that fasten to the back that are the actual contact decks. It appears to be the base of a commercial / light industrial selector switch. Actually about 10 times as much as you need. From your description......

I'm not sure what you are "building"; my machine(s) have a standard 4X4 metal can from a home center with a top plate with one switch and one duplex receptical for aux functions. The wiring gets into some sneaky tricks for which plug is always hot and which one is switched. But that's just me playing.

Total cost of what you described is just under $20 bux US. I would (highly) recommend against using the much cheaper plastic boxes. Can't say "No! Don't do it." but HIGHLY recommend against that cost cutting. I would also recommend "hospital grade" switches and recepticals. The contacts are higher grade than residential.

I do assume you're adding a light or some such. There are other devices available as bolt-ons that will provide up to splash proofing and key operated devices. Just look around the Electrical Department at most any home center.

If you are controlling a motor load larger than a large hand drill, the whole thing becomes a different ball of wax. But there, you would have to do some serious digging. The selector you linked to won't handle much more load than a couple of lamps. Those are "pilot" devices, driving a relay at best. Feel free to eMail me if it gets hairy.

Bill Hudson​
 

cathead

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#6
What about a simple toggle switch? You can buy an inexpensive plastic enclosure at Home Depot and put the whole thing
together for like 20$ or less. You could also use a conventional house wall switch (cheap cheap cheap)
I would never pay 30$ for a switch but then I'm a tightwad and a hoarder
Mark
Yup, Mark has the right idea. I power the RPC for my shop with an inexpensive wall switch. Its a dual 20 amp wall switch(DPST) connected in parallel,
that way it can handle 40 amps. I use it daily and have been powering my 5hp Lathe for years.
 

PT Doc

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#7
Your "switch" shown is merely an actuator. There are "blocks" that fasten to the back that are the actual contact decks. It appears to be the base of a commercial / light industrial selector switch. Actually about 10 times as much as you need. From your description......

I'm not sure what you are "building"; my machine(s) have a standard 4X4 metal can from a home center with a top plate with one switch and one duplex receptical for aux functions. The wiring gets into some sneaky tricks for which plug is always hot and which one is switched. But that's just me playing.

Total cost of what you described is just under $20 bux US. I would (highly) recommend against using the much cheaper plastic boxes. Can't say "No! Don't do it." but HIGHLY recommend against that cost cutting. I would also recommend "hospital grade" switches and recepticals. The contacts are higher grade than residential.

I do assume you're adding a light or some such. There are other devices available as bolt-ons that will provide up to splash proofing and key operated devices. Just look around the Electrical Department at most any home center.

If you are controlling a motor load larger than a large hand drill, the whole thing becomes a different ball of wax. But there, you would have to do some serious digging. The selector you linked to won't handle much more load than a couple of lamps. Those are "pilot" devices, driving a relay at best. Feel free to eMail me if it gets hairy.

Bill Hudson​
Thanks Bill. The mills motor will be receiving power for a RFC. The power supply needed for the mill’s accessories is 3 duplex outlets 120v for power feeds x 3, dro and light. I’ll be mounting a 3 gang metal box in a Wiegmann enclosure on the machine and the switch in discussion will shut off power to all the accessories. This switch will likely work and the box is small enough that I can remote mount it near the mills power selector.
https://www.zoro.com/schneider-elect...955/?q=XB5AD21

It will fit in the enclosure I originally listed.

https://www.zoro.com/schneider-elect...aign=connexity

Who new that industrial switches were so plentiful and complicated. Obviously can always go to Home Depot and get a typical wall switch.

Thanks again
 

RJSakowski

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#8
For simple ON/OFF accessory power, I would get an outdoor electrical box. A standard residential 2 way switch will fit in the box with no machining required. They are intended for surface mounting and have matching cover plates for a professional look. Any hardware or DIY store will carry them. They are available in either non-metallic or diecast aluminum.
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...77-c-6425.htm?tid=7790084215593893974&ipos=13
 
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