- Joined
- Feb 3, 2016
- Messages
- 12
It was a longer piece that was wider than the vise it stuck out one end and I cut it on the outside as my parallels haven't arrived yet. Good call though.
The draw bar is a joke, and so is the dimple on the spindle that is supposed to be used to hold the spindle while you tighten the draw bar. The draw bar setup was designed to release the collet when you back it off. If you make a replacement, you'll have to whack the draw bar to release the collet. If you make the draw bar with a 3/4" head, you should be able to use a Bridgport style wrench. It comes with a whacker cast into the handle.
My spindle lock dimple tore out in the first few weeks. You can buy an after market spindle lock, or make one yourself. I was doing a project when the dimple failed, so I grabbed a strap wrench to hold the spindle. It works well enough that I've never gotten around to making a proper spindle lock.
You do have to get the draw bar pretty tight. That's hard to do with the tiny top on the draw bar and no proper spindle lock. I nearly trashed a couple of days of machining when I was cutting pockets in the aluminum body of the dog clutch for my 10X22. The aluminum sucked the end mill out of the collet while I was climb milling the pocket. With all the chips all over, I didn't realize what was going on until the mill stalled. I'm real careful on heavy cuts now. A set of end mill holders is on my tool list.
I would not put the collet rack on the motor. You are going to mostly use 3 collets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. I probably use 3/8 body end mills 75% of the time. You are going to want an end mil rack, a drawer to hold wrenches and stuff, and a shelf for the rotary table that you will eventually get. A tool cabinet like the one in the draw bar picture is nice. I have several. Costco sells them.
You're going to love your new mill. It is so much better than your old X2 that it's scary.