New lathe setup

[MilsurpMonkey]

Ok, so I did it. Got my lathe home and in the shop. Now what? Now I’m suspecting is the start of the expensive part. Tools and measuring devices. I’m very new to machining, never having done more than turning brake drums and rotors. What are the top priorities to get started? I know the first thing needs to be a machinist level to get my lathe level before starting anything. What is a good one to start with? I don’t mind looking at used stuff, or new stuff, I just want good stuff. What are the most used items for setup? I’m assuming dial indicators and mounts? I do have good mitutoyo calipers and a good set of manual micrometers. What advice can you give a new guy? Ultimately most of my lathe work will be gunsmithing, mixed with whatever other projects a lathe can help with.


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[markba633csi]

I imagine you'll want to cut threads at some point so you should practice that, and dialing in a 4-jaw chuck
You'll need tool bits of course and a toolpost. Small bench grinder to grind HSS tools.
Insert tooling perhaps. Yes on dial indicator and base, plus test indicator(s)
Drill chuck, bits, reamers, taps, live and dead centers, boring bars. Probably some more I forgot
If you do barrel work you'll want to make a spider for supporting them out the back of the spindle
-Mark

 

[Aukai]

This post has some good information for tools in general.

Buying your first a lathe...what you wish you knew?

I’m about to pull the trigger and purchase a Precision Matthews PM1030 lathe. What do you wish you knew before buying your first lathe? What type of tooling and accessories did you buy or wish you did or did not buy?

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

I imagine you'll want to cut threads at some point so you should practice that.
You'll need tool bits of course and a toolpost. Small bench grinder to grind HSS tools
and/or insert tooling. Yes on dial indicator and base, plus test indicator(s)
Drill chuck, bits, reamers, taps, live and dead centers. Probably some more I forgot
If you do barrel work you'll want to make a spider for supporting them out the back of the spindle
-Mark

The lathe has the old lantern tool post with it, eventually I’ll upgrade it to a quick change once I get everything else squared away (just need to look into sizing info) I also have a live and a couple of dead centers with it, I forgot about needing a chuck. Making a spider is certainly something I’m trying to research as that will eventually be a necessity. I didn’t even think about a bench grinder, that’s great! I need one anyhow.


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[mickri]

Welcome to the forum. Don't be afraid to ask any question no matter how simple you may thing it is. There are lots of really knowledgeable people on here that will bend over backwards to help you out.

First get a manual for your lathe. That will tell you how to set up your lathe. While setting up a lathe is pretty similar from one lathe to another there may be some quirks for your particular lathe that you will find in the manual.

Mikey's very long thread on grinding tool bits is an absolute must read. I have read it all the way through several times and is my go to source for grinding tool bits. Because you are into milsurp rifles you will need to learn how to grind tool bits for Whitworth 55* threads. Mauser barrels have whitworth threads.

Once you have your lathe set up you will need to practice and more practice and more practice until you develop the motor skills to operating a lathe. I used pvc pipe and fittings to practice on to start with. All you are trying to accomplish is learning motor skills. Practice external turning and internal boring. When this is 2nd nature move on external and internal threading. It does not matter what thread pitch you are using other than to practice with both even and odd threads per inch or the diameter of the pvc. You are just learning the the motor skills.

Once you have the motor skills down pat move on to turning and boring in steel and aluminum to precise OD's and ID's. You mentioned that you only have lantern tool post. A good first project would be making an adjustable spacer for the lantern tool post. See the Winky's Workshop video.

. Another good first project is to make a norman style QCTP. You will get lots of practice with your lathe. For under a $100 in materials you will have a QCTP and 15 to 20 tool holders. You can never have too many tool holders for your QCTP. Lots of forum member have made them. Not hard to make and you only need a lathe and a drill to make the post and tool holders. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/norman-style-qctp.79705/ It doesn't hurt to have a mill but it is not essential.

Do not and I mean do not buy everything under the sun to start with. Only buy what you absolutely need for the project at hand.

For educational videos IMHO opinion there are none better the Mr Pete's aka Tubalcain videos. He is a retired high school shop teacher and knows how to teach. He is my go to source for learning how to operate a lathe and a mill. There are others who offer lots of good advice and suggestions but Mr. Pete is the best of the best for rank beginners.

Once you get the basics down there are lots of gunsmith specific projects to make. I made a micrometer chamber reamer stop. And a spider for the outboard end of the spindle. Lots of forum members are into gunsmithing and have made all kinds of things to help with their gunsmithing.

Most of all have fun with your lathe.

 

[Larry$]

The next thing you need is a mill and all the tooling required for it!

"Most of all have fun with your lathe." Mickri

 

[benmychree]

You asked about leveling your lathe, at minimum, you would need an accurate machinist's level with a graduated vial with at least a .005" per foot graduation, these can be had used for not a huge amount of money, but these are not good enough for final leveling, which requires a .0005"/ft. graduation, these are expensive, although they can be had made in China for a reasonable amount of money. If the lathe is roughly leveled, then you can go to the two collar method of alignment. Since you do not mention whether or not this lathe sits on a bench or on the floor, the above may be moot. If it is a bench lathe, likely it would not need any leveling or alignment, as most bench lathes are mounted on three points, two on the headstock end and one at the tailstock end. Some floor mounted lathes use this system also; if the lathe is on four feet on the floor, it would need to be leveled/aligned in order to cut straight. I would recomend going to a quick change tool post right away, especially if you did not get a set of toolholders with the lathe.
Suggestions would be easier to make, if you will post info and pictures of the lathe.

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

Here is the lathe, the 4 corners are now attached and are adjustable to level. I just need to know what level I need and the technique to do it


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[MilsurpMonkey]

Here is the lathe, the 4 corners are now attached and are adjustable to level. I just need to know what level I need and the technique to do it


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[benmychree]

Personally, I would set anchor bolts into the floor and shim under the feet, that makes for a secure lasting leveling job, however if you want to do leveling screws, you can make some plates for the screws to sit on that are about the same size as the feet and at least 3/8" thick with a drill point divot in the center, and the adjusting bolts pointed to match, when I mount a machine in that way, I put a piece of tarpaper under each plate, this evens out the concrete surface and also adheres to the floor to prevent movement. As I said earlier in my post, a level of about .0005"/ft. is necessary to properly level a lathe, although a .005"/ft. will get it close, and alignment may then be made by the two collar method can be used to refine the alignment so that the lathe will cut straight. In this method, a bar of usually steel about one inch in diameter is chucked in the lathe with about 6" sticking out and it is machined down in diameter, leaving about 1/4" full diameter at each end. A fine finish cut is made on each collar with the tool at the same setting and the size measured; if the sizes are not the same, adjustments are made to slightly twist the lathe bed and recut the collars until the collars are hopefully the same size, this should be done with a very sharp tool to avoid springing the bar.