New Student of the trade: First measuring devices

I have them for over 40 years and I have 4 sets including Starrett up to 0 to 17" I had a MFG where I supply the tools too.
As long as the mic repeats good to go.

Dave

You don't have to buy new, either. My two mikes (starrett 230's, old and newer one) have both been WELL used but are still very accurate.


I'd advise you look for used tools over new, they are plenty accurate and MUCH cheaper than new. That means you can use your remaining money to put towards other things.

Here is a GREAT deal on ebay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-USED-VINT...445?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adf17f25d
 
I went through this very same process two years ago. Brings back some memories.

Here's my advice, buddy. At this point in time, I would not buy the best you can. Start with a passable-quality but cheaper tool. Once you add more to your budget down the road, you can replace them one-by-one with quality.

Why do I say this? As a person new to the trade and possibly new to the handling of sensitive, precision equipment, you will slip up and drop something, or drop something on something, etc.. It happened to me. I started with $30 Kobalt calipers from Lowe's. After about six months, I dropped a drill chuck on them.

Now on to my picks.

I started off with Fowler micrometers. I bought a 0-1" at first, then added a 1-2 and then a 2-3. I find these mics to be pretty good, in fact. In testing with gage blocks, mine read within .0002" at any point. For a beginning student, that would be more than satisfactory.

A 0-3 set of Fowler mics will set you back a shade under $150, if I recall. Make sure that they read tenths (.0001"). A "tenths" mic can be recognized by having a vernier scale wrapping around the circumference of the micrometer barrel, above the main .025" scale.

As far as the thimble type, ratchet vs. friction, I would prefer friction. They are smooth, compared to click-click-click. Some say the clicking and ratcheting action can affect super-precise measurements. The ones I own are ratchet, but I would prefer friction.

A note on mics - take care of them. They are the most useful, and most precise tool you will own. Do not drop them, do not get them dirty, do not lay them just anywhere. Most of all, do not - I repeat, do not - close them with any more force than the friction or ratchet thimble will allow.

A good caliper will be your best friend to start out with. Looking at modern industry, you are looking at digital calipers (and even mics, were they not so much more expensive), if for one reason: the magic button marked "INCH / MM". Among other utilitarian features.

But there is nothing wrong with learning to read a dial caliper. They are easy to read, and some (like myself) prefer them from an aesthetic point. I'd recommend a 6" caliper in the $60-70 range, which would be Fowler or SPI, again.

If you have the money, move up to an 8" caliper. You get a longer measuring range, as well as longer jaws. This can also mean slightly enhanced rigidity for measurement as well.

A cheaper caliper is good, as they are, as some have said, more your beat-around measuring tool. Still, that really isn't much of an excuse. If you can - take care of them!

But I would advise getting a high-quality digital caliper when you become accustomed to precision tools. I own a 6" set of Mitutoyo Absolute digitals. They are $155 from Enco, and I swear to you, they are the best digital calipers in existence. Highly coolant resistant, and the pair I own? Even being a caliper, they check dead on with any size gage block. Even the ID jaws measure very near to a measurement with a telescoping gage and a mic.

For an indicator, I would recommend a test indicator first. These have a long, pivoting needle and offer higher accuracy in most cases. What type? Even without budget considerations (barring a $400 Interapid) - get a Fowler X-Test. With a pivoting shank and needle, and a quite beefy body, a .0005 X-Test will serve all your needs. The pivoting shank adds a huge amount of versatility.

One more piece of advise is a good indicator holder, both for a test indicator and for the eventual normal dial indicator you will lust for. For that, the only answer is Noga. A Noga holder with a universal single clamp and head-mounted fine adjustment. They are somewhat pricey, but they cannot be beat. I know from experience that cheaper brands such as MHC is a waste of time and money.

You can also unscrew it from the magnetic base, make a solid shank for it, and use it on a mill for extended tramming or sweeping in a large round piece.

Lastly is a deburring tool, as you mention. I believe Enco has a two-piece set of Shaviv Vargus deburring tools for $22? One with small blades, one large. Shaviv makes some of the best deburring tools. It is something that will not wear out, so splurge now.

I seem to have rambled a bit, but it's taken me a good half hour to write this up. I may post more later.
 
Pat, a lot of real good info there^^^

As I said I have two Starrett 230's, the older is a ratchet and the newer is friction. To be honest.....they both work just fine. Both have their quirks, but I prefer the friction one because I don't have to reach the very end of the mike to use it.

Not all mikes have friction or ratchet mechanisms, some you have to learn to feel. I have two Handy brand 0, .5 mikes that used to be sold by Woolworths. You have to feel when to stop turning the thimble with them. turn them very lightly until they mechanically stop. Then STOP turning the thimble! Any more and it's unneeded stress on the mike and warrants an inaccurate reading. When you get used to using a mike you can start to feel things that will cause a bad reading, like debris or a burr on the anvils.

I'd send you some tools but I'm just starting out too, all the mikes or calipers I have are very sentimental. Good luck on your search!
 
Well when I started out I bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need. Then I had to buy more stuff because I realized I just didn't like what I had or it sits in my toolbox never to be used again. Nothing wrong with good used stuff on eBay too. You can tell if something is beat.

I would recommend a $20 digital caliper for now. I still use mine all the time. A mitutoyo absolute is in my opinion the best. Get that after you haven't dropped the cheap one for a month straight.

I like mitutoyo mics. Personally I've been using the digital ones with the dials (not the digital screen). They are easy to read quickly to a thou and they have the vernier for tenths.

Get a .001 test indicator to start. A .0005 doesn't have the range when you're learning to dial stuff in. I picked up an interapid off eBay for $50 that runs like a champ. Once you get used to it you can dial in a couple tenths on it pretty easily. You may know by then what you want.

Spend some money on an indicator base. Get a Noga. You'll thank me later.

If you're gonna stick with it you might as well buy good stuff from the start (buy once, cry once) and learn to take care of it. Why waste your money on junk when you're measuring to tenths?

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Some files might be helpful too. Forgot to mention that.

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I agree with the noga. I got a cheap mag base to start. It works just fine. But it's such a pain to use. Them noga's are instant happy. Even the knock version at work is way better then the dual rod styles.

I use a 12 and a 4in caliper. I like the 12 but the 4 saves a ton of table cranks when checking a part.

The only tool I would say was a waste of money for me was a harbor freight dial indicator. I have never used it. Just dont seem smooth to me. Every other tool I have, even the top quality ones, will one day be my beater set. They will all be replaced with new at some point for them special jobs.

It's real ice to have angle blocks or joe blocks that are beater tools. I use my beater joe blocks to set quill depth more then any thing. So fast to touch off and lock the quill, throw the stack up there and run the stop up to it. Done. I would never use a set of mitts like that, even cheap ebay ones. Those are special

But then again, I have 15 pairs of pliers the same size ahahaha
 
Hey Chuck, I have a Brown and Sharpe dial indicator stand, has two rods and one little lever locks both of them instantly. Not quite the freedom of a Noga but I like it. Plus it was a good deal for $15 with a BS indicator :)
 
A lever would be 1000x better then what I got ahaha. But even that works just fine. But thats one tool I wish I would have bought a better quality to start.
 
A cheap set of Joe blocks, as said before, is very handy. You don't need anything expensive there yet. I have some starrert/Weber stuff I check every so often to make sure it hasn't move haha but it never comes out really.

Maybe a surface plate for layout work? Enco imports are pretty cheap with free shipping codes. Height gage to go with it would be a Starrett 254 or similar. Something with a knob and a leadscrew on the back so you can adjust quickly. Not a necessity but sooo much nicer than your regular height gage.

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