New to me 11 inch logan

Most of at least the older US made lathes without needle or ball thrust bearings have a functionally similar way to adjust the end float of the cross feed screw to nearly zero.
 
Noticed something with this lathe. You can back the cross slide out to a point where it covers up the numbers on the wheel. Wouldn't happen often, but might if I was making a pulley. Any suggestions?
 
Chris Hamel said:
Noticed something with this lathe. You can back the cross slide out to a point where it covers up the numbers on the wheel. Wouldn't happen often, but might if I was making a pulley. Any suggestions?
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Well, you could put a DRO on it
 
Kluge something with a dial indicator and mag base.
I have a couple 1" travel DI's for finish work on my lathe.
 
Do a search on eBay. There is a guy that makes the crossfeed nuts for Logan’s.
 
After making a new gear out of aluminum, I decided to make an adapter to go from the 2 degree spindle to mt3. Not sure if there is better way, but I set up the taper attachment by chucking a piece of round stock. I measured off exactly one foot. Using a dial indicator I adjusted the taper attachment until I got the correct number of thousandths per foot. Worked great. The adapter was a good fit. Next I did the same thing for the taper of mt3. I put the adapter in the spindle and bored with the mt3 taper. When i was done and I put a mt3 center in it, it ran true.

Today I put a new cross slide nut in it. (Got from eBay for about $50..) Really helped to tighten things up. Now I only have about .010 slack on my crossfeed knob.

Finally I put some extra long screws on my crossfeed ribs so I could put jam nuts on them. Big improvement.
 
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