New To Me, Jet 1336pbd - With Some "issues"

For that size shaft the bronze bushings should have a minimum of 1 1/4 thou. clearance.
I use a light grease for lube which has worked fine. With grease the clearance can be a bit more 1.5 to even 2 thou.
Since your going to install new bushings it wouldn't hurt to make certain the shaft is true and round.
Shaft looks fine in the picture but your eyes and mic will tell the truth.
You might consider, if the shaft needs it, to turn a few thousanths off the old shaft to clean it up. Then machine the bushings to fit.
Can't remove much but you have a little wiggle room.
The bushings need a interference fit in the back gear but just 2 or 3 tenths should be fine. The bushing bore will shrink when pressed together so it should be oversized the same amount.
If your a few tenths over or under your target clearance it's just fine as long as you have at least 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 thou clearance.
 
Actually, I haven't quite made the decision to install bushings yet, due to the difficulty (for me anyway) of boring the new gears sufficiently to install bushings. I'm considering having the cast iron bore of the new backgear set ride directly on a slightly larger eccentric shaft. The OD of the eccentric shaft is only .05 smaller than the ID of the new backgears, which is smaller than the thinnest walled bushing. If I had a way to bore the backgears out I would definitely install bushings. I've even looked at Igus plastic bushings which can have a much thinner wall, thinking I might not have to bore out the backgear.
I will be using oil to lube these.
Once I get the spindle and bearings back into the headstock then I'll be able to turn the eccentric shaft and ensure it's round. It's off by a few thousandths right now and the smaller portion of the shaft is slightly mushroomed.


Steve Shannon, P.E.
Edited to correct relationship between new backgear bore ID and old shaft OD. Shaft is smaller, not larger, than gear bore.
 
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I'd like to revive this thread and add a little and maybe learn a little about the differences in the Jet 1330 machines. Mine is a BD-1336T. The pdf manual I have says BD-1325R, BD-1336R , and BD-1340R. I also have a hard copy manual for 13BH series (BD-1325R BD-1336T, and BD-1340T). There is not much difference. Here is what it looks like. I'll have to search for coo and serial number.

I have all of the extra gears and such that should have come in the red tool box. Most of my extra stuff was never unwrapped for the paper and cosmoline.

Hopefully we can help each other with the iinfo excJet BD 1336T.jpghange.
 
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Hello,
I'd also like to revive this thread. I have a Jet that looks an awful lot like the one above. However, I think it is a bit older. It has a open legged stand instead of the cabinet stand. The previous owner made a tube steel stand that it is no now. I'm cleaning it up and restoring it and really need a manual.

The nameplate says mine is a 1336-PBD from 1988. It has a 2 1/4" - 8 threaded spindle. I am pulling the spindle to put new oil seals and probably bearings while I've got it apart. I would like a manual or any comments from anyone who has ever pulled the spindle on one of these.

I assume I can just loosen up all the things attached to the spindle with setscrews (pullys and gears) and make a threaded rod jack and pull the spindle out.

Once I have it out, it would be great to switch to a D1-4 spindle...not sure how expensive that would be or if it is available...I might consider making one.

Near as I can tell by direct measurement the outboard outside oil seal is 62mm x 85mm x 10mm. I assume they are all 4 the same but would love a manual to confirm.

Please let me know if you have a manual/parts list. thanks, Jerry
 
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Update. I have obtained a good digital copy of the original Jet manual for this lathe. Anybody who wants a copy please send me a private message with your email address.

.289157

Here is a snip of the spindle drawing. I'm planning to jack the spindle out with a threaded rod jack. I have loosened 3 set screws, 2 on the pully and one on the spacer to the left of the drawing. I think that is it. Once I jack it over about an inch, I'll slide the pully over and take out the key that is under the large helical gear.

this will leave the inboard tapered roller bearing in the headstock under the bearing cover. I'll be jacking against the bearing cover but it is aluminum and I'm a bit concerned about damaging it. Not too hard to make a new one if I have to. The other option would be to loosen the capscrews and jack the head cover off and the bearing might come out on the spindle. Then I would still have to press it off.

I'd be very happy to hear from someone who has done this job before. If it rains this weekend, and it is forecast to, I plan to do this job.

--Jerry
 
Took the spindle out today. Ordering new bearings and oil seals.

Anybody have a recommended bearing brand/part number /supplier? the bearings are both tapered roller, 30211A and 30212A. Lots of inexpensive bearings available, and a few more expensive bearings available, but I don't know what is really appropriate for such an older lathe. Not that easy to take apart so I want to get good quality bearings the first time. Not as worried about cost as quality.

--Jerry
 
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