Odd Type Spanner Nut

I'm guessing I will have some more questions before this rebuild is finished. Many thanks for all of the suggestions.
 
Since I’m guessing tapered roller bearings oil a gear oil bath . My gut feeling is pre- lube the bearings , tighten the nut with a pair of slip joint pliers while rotating the shaft as tight as you can , back off 1/2 turn then just snug up with the pliers . Similar to auto wheel bearings . I’m guessing they list 5 lb in stead of ” hand tight “ because I’m weak and Bubba would overtighten it lol
 
Looks similar to the spindle nut on my older AMC Jeep.
 

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Does the nut have any kind of retention washer, bend over tabs, etc.. Mike
 
No, no usual tab to bend into place, but instead it has a screw that screws down inside the rounded notch into the actual worm gear. I got this thing put together and installed and it is working perfectly. I used the hand tight method that was suggested by Alcap, except I found a set of C-Clamp vice grips that has the perfect clamp heads to match the rounded slots on the nut and that made it easy to tighten as tight as I needed and to loosen again as well. I searched harbor freight for an hour before I came up with this idea and the tool was almost like it was made for the job.

It was no small chore or feat to lift it this gear box up into place having to first drop it down into place. It is bulky and weighs 125 pounds without oil or grease. I used a chain block hoist attached to a skid loader and dropped it down into place, then used the chain hoist to get it up into place under a steel plate it bolts to.

I thought removing it was hard, then rebuilding it wasn't easy, but installing it was a whole new game. lol Now I know why heavy equipment mechanics charge so much money. I had to buy $300 worth of tools and $700 worth of parts. But a new gear box was almost $12K, so I feel I got off easy other than the difficult job. I learned a lot though and know much more about my machine than I ever imagined. I can use the tools on futures jobs, as I am building me a garage and learning to work on my own heavy equipment as much as possible going forward. This single job saved me over $10K.

I do have another question. I lost one of the metal spacers that goes between the swing box and the metal plate it bolts to. There are 4 of these spacers, and I only found three. It might have been missing when I took it apart, as that is when I noticed it was missing and I searched everywhere for it. It is about an inch tall and the bolt slips down through the metal plate and then down through this spacer before going through the gear box bolt hole. Basically, there are 4 large bolts that bolt the gear box up against a metal plate on the machine, and there are 4 spacers that keep the gear box approximately an inch below the metal plate. I'm assuming that is because the gear box top is not flat enough to bolt directly to the metal plate.

When I look up the part number, I get the following: 100-8.8-A4C spacer. Can anyone decipher that so that I can find a replacement part like it? It's a Terex part, and Terex might have it, but their price list says $170.00, and that seems way overpriced for a metal spacer about an inch thick and about 1 inch or so in diameter. If I could decipher that part number, I might find one someplace else, so hoping you guys can be of help to me again. Thanks in advance!
 
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If you could post a picture of the spacer along with dimensions it might help .
 
I am thinking this is a hydraulic functioning crane so the nut on the worm gear will not be affected by the position (vertical alignment) of the main frame?
Old school clutch type crane flunky here.
@mccullek 's suggestion about more than 2 bolts is a good idea IMHO.
Good luck .
Rock Breaker
Just got through with my thread after the spacer issue. You may be able to measure one of the others to make one. Two alignment thoughts: will the gear box be in full contact with all 4 spacers? And will the swing gear align well with the ring gear?
 
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