Ohio Forge Horizontal Band Saw Questions

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A_Ninja_Racer

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Hello All,

I recently got my hands on a Ohio Forge Horizontal Band Saw Model 510-505 for the perfect price of Free. It does need a little maintenance a lot of it is pretty self explanatory, but I have some questions that I'm hoping you might be able to help me with.

1st off it didn't come with an owners manual. Doe anybody know where I might be able to find one? I did try the link to the free Bandsaw manuals but there was no luck.

2nd It looks like the Bearings are serviceable but one of mine looks to be a little damaged and may need to be replaced. Are their replacements available? is there a site that you could recommend to find them.

3rd I've seen several variants with different Branding and minor differences here & there like different sized motors. or the legs having s slightly different design but all off the variants seem to have a pin that locks the saw in the down position for transporting. Does the ohio forge have something like this? I've looked in all the places that the variants have theirs but I don't see a Pin hole anywhere.
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Can't beat free! Many of those saws use several 6201 size bearing. Nachi is a good brand. The two main drive wheel spindle
bearings are usually larger- I don't recall the size; hopefully yours are ok. Most bearings have the size printed on them.
Open the gearbox and check the worm gears asap; if it needs oil use the proper type that's safe for yellow metals (bronze)
 
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As mentioned, I wouldn't get hung up on finding bearings from the manufacturer. Not one saw manufacturer I am aware of makes their own bearings. They are all off the shelf models from standard manufacturers like Timken, NKF, NSK, FAG, Koyo, Nachi, and others. In most cases you won't even need the numbers, all you have to do is measure the ID, OD width, and know the type of rolling element (ball or roller) and the type of seal if any.

Some years ago, I was looking for blade guide bearings for my Startrite H175 horizontal bandsaw. Clausing had them at only $32.00 each. I thought that was outrageous, so I searched online using the previously mentioned attributes. I came up with bearings used for skateboard wheels at less than $3.00 each. I thought for the price it was worth a try. They've been working fine for close to 20 years and the saw is used on a daily basis.
 
Mine doesn't have a down lock, never thought it needed one. Gravity is soooo constant and points in the right direction to keep the arm down.
 
Asm109 said:
Mine doesn't have a down lock, never thought it needed one. Gravity is soooo constant and points in the right direction to keep the arm down.
Click to expand...
So it seems that Mine had been moved around a "LOT" because the wheel bracket seems to be pulling away from the legs enough that the you have to lift the other end so high to get the Wheel side legs go break contact from the ground so that the wheels can roll that the band saw part then flips over and then throws itself onto the ground.

I'm actually thinking about just building a wooden base and slapping 4 casters under it. I saw a video of a guy that did it to his. He said that it ended up raising his about 7 inches which made it fewel more ergonomic for him. Since I'm 6'2 and have lower back issues I think this would be a good improvement for me as well.
projectnut said:
As mentioned, I wouldn't get hung up on finding bearings from the manufacturer. Not one saw manufacturer I am aware of makes their own bearings. They are all off the shelf models from standard manufacturers like Timken, NKF, NSK, FAG, Koyo, Nachi, and others. In most cases you won't even need the numbers, all you have to do is measure the ID, OD width, and know the type of rolling element (ball or roller) and the type of seal if any.

Some years ago, I was looking for blade guide bearings for my Startrite H175 horizontal bandsaw. Clausing had them at only $32.00 each. I thought that was outrageous, so I searched online using the previously mentioned attributes. I came up with bearings used for skateboard wheels at less than $3.00 each. I thought for the price it was worth a try. They've been working fine for close to 20 years and the saw is used on a daily basis.
Click to expand...
Yeah I wasn't thinking I was going to get them from Ohio Forge but I thought there might be a part number that would help me find an equivalent option from one of the brands you mentioned.
markba633csi said:
Can't beat free! Many of those saws use several 6201 size bearing. Nachi is a good brand. The two main drive wheel spindle
bearings are usually larger- I don't recall the size; hopefully yours are ok. Most bearings have the size printed on them.
Open the gearbox and check the worm gears asap; if it needs oil use the proper type that's safe for yellow metals (bronze)
Click to expand...
Thanks I didn't even think about looking at the work gears. Since I want to service the guide bearings anyway I guess I will go ahead and blow the whole thing apart and get to those gears.

The guy who had it before me did a lot of wood working. He was also a Hoarder. He passed away and his grand daughter needed help cleanin out his house. She gave my brother and I several tools from his shop for helping with cleaning out the house. We got a small 6 ton shop press the horizontal band saw. a Larger central machinery vertical band saw, a Floor Stand Central Machinery 16 speed drill press. a wood lathe (Not Sure what Brand) and a router and router table.
 
A_Ninja_Racer said:
1st off it didn't come with an owners manual. Doe anybody know where I might be able to find one? I did try the link to the free Bandsaw manuals but there was no luck.
Click to expand...

While there may be some small differences, I think if you got the manual for any of those look a likes, you'd be ahead of the game.

A_Ninja_Racer said:
2nd It looks like the Bearings are serviceable but one of mine looks to be a little damaged and may need to be replaced. Are their replacements available? is there a site that you could recommend to find them.
Click to expand...

Take the bearing in question out, and match it by numbers if it has them, otherwise measure the bearing, note the bearing type and seal type, and order something from a reputable name. These won't be high end toleranced bearings, but the cheapest bearings you can find with unpronouncable names, those won't be your friend. You will find that if you could even find bearings by from the manufacturer/reseller, they'd be cheese grade no-name stuff that you really don't want anyhow, and they'd cost more than a premium bearing from a local bearing/power transmission place. Check for numbers on the old bearing first. That's the best way.

A_Ninja_Racer said:
all off the variants seem to have a pin that locks the saw in the down position for transporting. Does the ohio forge have something like this? I've looked in all the places that the variants have theirs but I don't see a Pin hole anywhere.
Click to expand...

It wouldn't surprise me if it didn't. The couple I've seen are a pin stuck through the "arm" that the balance spring attaches to. Just goes across into a small drill hole in the base casting. In my estimation, that pin is over such a long distance, into thin castings of a brittle flavor of cast iron. In the event of an "incident", I wonder if it would catch the saw, or just break things to make a more spectacular crash when it all hits the ground... I don't think it would actually help with anything beyond a SLIGHT over center situation if you picked it up a little too far when you were moving it. I don't actually install my pin, as I'm more afraid that I'll forget it engaged and try to lift the saw. I'd bet I could total the saw in an instant if I did that.
I think it might be an "upgrade" to put a little chain and hook (like the 200 dollar abrasive chop saws use) on the "handle" end of the saw. Drill/tap two holes, let the chain hang from the low one, and put the hook up top. Maybe even under one of the blade guard hinge screws.

Take a look at this one- Fourth and Fifth picture show the chain on the base, and the hook up near the motor.
www.homedepot.com

RIDGID 15 Amp 14 in. Abrasive Cut-Off Saw R41422 - The Home Depot

RIDGID introduces the R41422 14 in. Abrasive Cut-Off Saw. Unlike other benchtop tools, the RIDGID 14 in. Abrasive Cut-Off Machine is eligible for the Industry’s Best Lifetime Service Agreement. Simply
www.homedepot.com
 
The whole stand and wheel arrangement on the 4x6 saws is a gomer pile- I installed a pair of angle iron from a bedframe along the bottom legs to reinforce and strengthen mine- mucho better
You can also add trays in the middle to put stuff, and you can add a chip catcher box too. Tons of improvements you can make for near zero $
 
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Do you have a gear lube that you would recommend? The only thing that I can find that specifically states that it is for Brass Worm gears is 150 bucks a gallon.I don't imagine that I would need more than a quart.
 
Lucas and RedLine both offer oils that are supposed to be safe for bronze gears
I used this stuff for 5 years without any problems:
IMG_20230922_125412796_HDR.jpgIMG_20230922_125428211_HDR.jpg
I have heard that drugstore mineral oil is safe also
 
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