Old Tree 2uv that is wired from the factory 440 3PH. I need to get this to 220

[mdelke]

OK I have been looking around the internet and to my way of thinking I would be better off changing the motor controller from the old style 440 3Ph that is in there to a new 220 3PH with the right heaters already installed When I bought the mill the guy had 440 and it ran as smooth as silk and quiet even though it is old. I saw some motor controllers for 3 PH up to 3 horse motors with enclosure from American company for around $100.
My question is is it going to be a pain in the a$$ to do this?
My motor is rated for 220 or 440 according to the tag.
I am not sure I will be able to find the heaters I would need for 220.

The only bummer of this machine is the quill has no external parts that move up and down to hook a dro up.

Any help would be appreciated.

I am cleaning it up, looking for hidden damage that needs to be fixed and making it look good for a winter time project her in Michigan's Upper Peninsula.
This is a picture of the controller that is on the machine.

 

[markba633csi]

I think it's not a difficult conversion and not too expensive. I haven't done it personally but several folks here can advise you
Trees are good mills
-Mark

 

[matthewsx]

Hi and welcome,

If the motor can run on 220V 3Phase you will definitely be able to get it up and running. The simplest thing to do would be a static phase converter hooked to the original mains input and change the wiring on the motor. But, as you have probably figured out there are other components that either may not work on 220V or are just plain busted.

I had a Gorton MasterMill that had a similar situation and I ended up pulling all the ancient electrical out and running a VFD direct to the spindle motor. This may be an option depending on the condition of your motor (some older motors aren't happy with VFD 3 phase). I had intended to hook up additional VFD's for the feeds and wire the whole thing to work with the original switches but I sold my business and ended up trading the mill for sailboat rigging.

Post up more pictures so we can see what you're working with, there are lots of folks here who know more than me and they'll probably chime in here soon.

John

 

[Ulma Doctor]

personally, i would rip out the old controls and wire in a new style contactor with an overload relay.

like this

MAGNETIC MOTOR STARTER CONTROL FOR ELECTRIC MOTOR 7.5 HP 3-PHASE 208-240VAC 21A | eBay

A motor starter is for the purpose of protecting a motor that has no thermal overload protection in the motor itself. Motor starters are typically for 3 phase larger motors. PHASE: THREE. WHAT IS AN IEC ( International Electrotechnical Commission) MAGNETIC STARTER & WHAT PURPOSE DOES IT SERVE?.

www.ebay.com

 

[Flyinfool]

I have a Tree 2UVR. I got mine cheap because the cross feed motor was wired for 440 and the main for 220. The cross feed motor ran but did not have the power to push a cutter thru metal. When i rewired it to 220 it worked fine. I made no changes to either of the switch boxes and they did not seem to care that I changed from 440 to 220. I am using a Rotary phase converter to power all of my 3ph machines.

 

[brino]

@mdelke , Can you please clarify.......

I took this:

I have been looking around the internet and to my way of thinking I would be better off changing the motor controller from the old style 440 3Ph that is in there to a new 220 3PH with the right heaters already installed

to mean that the previous owner had 440V 3-phase, but you have 220V 3-phase and just need to change the thermal cutouts for the new current. (as well as changing the motor wiring to the low-voltage option)

However, at least one post above is suggesting going to a phase converter.

Exactly what input source do you want to supply this with?
Is it 220V 3-phase or 220V single-phase?

Thanks,
-brino

 

[mdelke]

Thanks Brino
Sorry about the confusion. I have a 220 phase converter from American rotary, and yes the guy I picked the mill up from had 440 3 Phase.
I have looked for the proper heaters for 220 and didn't see any so figured I would update the controller switch box to a more modern Square D which I can get local, with the proper heaters.
Setting the wires up in the motor was not the problem I can handle that OK. I was just worried that the more modern controller might need to be wired differently, don't want to burn out the motor as it runs very quiet and smooth.

Mike

 

[mksj]

I tried to find a schematic, to see what other dependent electrical systems are present or if it is just the spindle motor. Lots of manuals, but no schematics. As noted, you are probably best off scrapping the current system and doing a full replacement enclosure/electrical system. If you have any other drives, pumps, head feed, etc. that need electrical power they will need to be factored in. The Feed motors are often DC and make work off a transformer that can be wired for either voltage.

Given that the control box is pretty toasty, it may be more cost effective and practical to get a 2 or 3 Hp VFD to drive the motor and keep the parameters conservative. If it is an older motor possibly considering DV/dT filter between the VFD and motor. Something like the Teco L510 series is around $150, and the filters can be picked up for under $100 on eBay. You can use some very simple momentary push puttons for run/stop plus a reverse switch. I would replace all the other electrics/wiring up to the motor. If there is an ancillary electric drive, you will need to check it's power requirements.

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Nice source of information in this forum that I was not aware of:

Tree

U.S. Made

www.hobby-machinist.com

You should be able to attach a thin ring around the bottom of the quill with an extension to drive a quill DRO, some pictures may be helpful.

 

[Flyinfool]

Unfortunately all visible portions of the Tree quill are rotating parts. There is nothing to connect a DRO or Z axis drive to. I have been pondering how to do the Z axis, other than drive the whole knee, for years.

 

[mdelke]

Here is a picture of the motor plate, has anyone seen this before where 220 and 440 are the same connections.