Painting an Atlas Lathe 10” QC54 091270

L

Lbrewer42

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 6, 2019
Messages
38
I am looking for information concerning how to get a lasting paint job on an Atlas Lathe (10” QC54 091270) I want to restore. I restore hand tools as a hobby and am having a terrible time finding a metal paint that will provide a lasting finish as impervious to dings and scratches like found on original machinery surfaces.
I restored a vise for my workbench for practice before tackling the lathe. I researched, contacted Rustoleum about their metal paint and what I wanted to do. I bought what they said, prepped the metal, cleaned with mineral spirits and acetone, and applied the paint.
And...the paint will chip/scratch without too much of a problem.
Just how does a person paint something to have the resilience of things like my very old Craftsman drill press, or for that matter, my refrigerator, stove, or even a generic oil filter for a car!?

Thanks for any help or advice. I want this to be able to make sure I know what I am doing so I can do the job right the first time.
 

Attachments

  • _Atlas_Lathe_mine.jpg
    _Atlas_Lathe_mine.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 27
  • Atlas_QC10inch_ID_ccfopt.jpg
    Atlas_QC10inch_ID_ccfopt.jpg
    142.4 KB · Views: 25
Machinery paint used to be a very tough enamel. For various reasons, those paints are unobtainable/difficult to find (mostly for environmental/OHSA reasons, I assume) so the current alternatives are expensive specialty paints.

You will have difficulty finding a durable modern paint that does not use a hardening additive. Any paint that will do what you want will probably only be available for commercial use. Some of the best paints are sold only to commercial customers, and you may have to get someone to order it under their account. The hardeners are hazardous, and you will need protection from skin contact as well as breathing.

I painted my QC42 with Randolph brand Continental Grey aircraft engine paint in 1986. It has held up very well, but I don't know if that particular paint is still available. Continental quit using that color/type of paint in the 1950's.
 
Thanks for this info. I am a former chemistry teacher so very used to hazardous chemicals.
 
I would think epoxy paint for metal would be tougher than regular enamel.
 
Maybe look at the two-part paints? I think they are called 2K.
Link is the first hit from Google.

2K AeroSpray and DuraSpray Paints Primers Clears

Give vehicles an impressive finish without the paint gun thanks to our self-mixing automotive spray paint for auto body, underhood and chassis applications.
www.eastwood.com www.eastwood.com
 
There are hardeners you can buy that can be added to enamel. The best old machine finishes were baked I believe, like cars.
I personally have found that the Rustoleum brush enamels will dry very hard after about a week, in good weather
Less thinning the better. Best is straight from can.
I painted my little Atlas with their Royal blue and it's been very resistant to abuse
-M
 
Last edited:
@markba633csi
Would you mind me asking the steps you took? Sanding, primer, painting, resanding etc? And how many coats? What about a clear top coat?
 
Just a thorough degreasing with naphtha (coleman fuel, white gas) and paint. I think I used two coats, no primer, no clear coat
Weather was nice and warm maybe that's why it worked so well.
Came out nice:
DSCN0186.JPGDSCN0188.JPG
 
Last edited:
Trust the Rust... trust the Rust...:) I'm a cheapskate I didn't use any masking tape either
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top