Picked up a little mill finally.

Thanks all for the comments and advice.

He said it came with a PH converter, I just did not know that the motor was the actual converter. So maybe it's not some jerry rigged set up. ahaha. What kinda caps or what not, or what kinda little motor would I use on this?

I just liked the vfd more for the variable speed then anything else. But if this set up is fine, I think I will use it at least in the mean time. I got alot of things to spend money on so if I dont need to spend it on a vfd right now, all the better.

I'm gonna talk to my instructor about bringing the table in to clean it up. It will be a process to get the whole machine nice
 
I purchased my Pearson BP clone Mill last May which has a 2.2 HP 3 phase motor on it. To get it to work in my single phase garage, I purchased a 3 HP 3 phase electric motor and also a "Phase Craft" converter on ebay for $130. All you do is flip the switch on the phase converter and your in business. I just checked and noticed the ebay store is still selling them. See http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-HP-ROTARY...607?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fa633b0f

You could, of course, build your own electrical box (which consists of relays and capacitors) but I didn't think it was justified for the price of the "Phase Craft". This is what is known as a Rotary Phase Converter. There are also Static Phase Converters, which I understand reduces the HP capacity of the machine motor and also can damage it over time.
 
I dearly love my teco vfd for reversing and speed control. They are supposed to be easier on the motor too. When you have her all functional, you might list the phase converter to recoup vfd money. Buying the series one rebuild book is money well spent. Lot's of good pic's and advice. Machinerypartsdepot.com Is a helpful friendly outfit with competitive prices. They carry that book and lots of parts. Congrats!
 
Ok don't jury rig the system!!! Check to see what HP, amperage and phase the motor is! If it is a 4 HP or larger then use the link that was given to you about the Ebay rotary phase converter and spend a bit of money and get a quality product. Spinning up the idler motor (which is what that extra motor is) by hand and ensuring all goes well can lead to burning out the idler motor, and tying yourself up in a spinning motor.

If the idler motor is less than 4 HP then you have other decisions to make because phase converters don't produce the full rated HP and your mill will run much less than it is rated for. Typically you will loose between 1/3 and 1/2 the rated HP output on a phase converter. So you need a larger idle motor to offset the loss thus a 4 hp being the smallest to gain full power form the phase converter.

Take some time while your rebuilding your mill and study up on Rotary Phase converters -- I wouldn't waste my time on Static Phase Converters they are real weak and can be problematic (I know many have good luck with them).

The VFD is a great way to go if you are only going to have 1 3 phase piece of equipment. If you want more 3 phase equipment in the future you can use a single rotary phase converter to power that too but only run 1 tool at a time unless you build a larger HP rotary phase converter. Again I strongly suggest you do a bunch of online research and understand Static Phase converters, Rotary Phase converters and VFD's then make you decision. Also most all phase converters are start up rated so say you had a 10 HP motor you may be able to run 3 machines simultaneously as long as the start up HP is not and issue. A 10 HP rotary phase converter could run say 20 HP of machines at one time but none could in itself be more that say 7.


Regards
Keith
 
I suspect that the gray motor is exactly that - a three phase motor being used to generate three phase power from the standard single phase 220 volt line being started manually. If you add a static phase converter to the gray motor (connected to the motor directly) you will have created a self starting, rotary phase converter. Just apply power and away it goes. Check this ebay listing out for a static phase converter that is less than $50 with free shipping. In the listing, go to the bottom and click the "ask a question" link and then click "other" for a list of FAQ's. He talks about using a static converter and an idler motor to build a rotary phase converter. For under $50 you can use the motor you have and add the static converter to end up with a nice rotary converter that will give you the full power output of the motor on the mill and should not harm the mill motor, based on what I have read.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Hp-Stat...864?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c7d4f8aa8

I would suggest contacting the seller for sizing information. This one is for a 3-5 hp motor - might not need that size. I saw the same seller had a smaller version for a little less.
 
Thanks all.

The guy un hooked the electrics while I was trying to load it. So I aint sure whats what or how it worked. I think the 220 cord came into the 2hp gray motor and the "block" in this pic. Out of that block there was a 220 female plug and some smaller wires that run to the two switches. Out of the two switches there is a 110 male plug. I believe the motor on the mill had a male 220 plug that went into the female plug.

The guy removed the female 220 that I know of. I'm assuming he also took a male 220 plug off the mill motor.

So I think it went

1)220 in to gray motor
2)into the "block"
3)220 female plug and to the two switches
4)male 220 plug into 220 female and mill motor
 
chuckorlando said:
Thanks all.

The guy un hooked the electrics while I was trying to load it. So I aint sure whats what or how it worked. I think the 220 cord came into the 2hp gray motor and the "block" in this pic. Out of that block there was a 220 female plug and some smaller wires that run to the two switches. Out of the two switches there is a 110 male plug. I believe the motor on the mill had a male 220 plug that went into the female plug.

The guy removed the female 220 that I know of. I'm assuming he also took a male 220 plug off the mill motor.

So I think it went

1)220 in to gray motor
2)into the "block"
3)220 female plug and to the two switches
4)male 220 plug into 220 female and mill motor
Click to expand...

Do some google searching of it. It is not that difficult and once you fully understand it the connections won't be a problem. Make it work because it does work and is free and you can run other equipment off it too.
 
The grey motor is your idler motor (the one that generates the 3 phase)

Your 220 should come into your phase converter which is in some kind of an electrical enclosure. It sounds like you have a manual system with the 2 switches, one may be the power switch for your 220 line input and the may run a switch for the Idler motor. Personally I think that this kind of start circuit is a bad idea it can lead to a burned up idler motor (I learned this the hard way trying to be cheap). I can't help with the switch wiring as I don't know and can't see what it is for sure.

The idea is this in a good clean system:
220 comes in from the panel to a phase converter box and hooks up to a connector inside the box. Then the idler motor your gray motor has 4 wires connected up to it under the wiring box plate fastened to the motor. Three power lines and one ground (T1, T2, T3 and ground) these wires go up into the phase converter box and connect where you see T1, T2, T3 and ground. It is not important which wires go on which connection but be sure ground goes to ground. From the Phase converter box you run 4 more wires out to a magnetic starter then to the mill connecting them to T1. T2, and T3 as well as ground. Again assuring which is T1, T2 or T3 is not important. If when the equipment is started and it should run backwards just swap around any 2 of the wires Marked T1,T2 or T3 and it will run the opposite directions.

Now what I can't help you with is the switching used that came with the machine as this can be done several different ways that is why I am encouraging you to go onto Ebay and purchase that phase converter talked about earlier.

Google making a 3 phase converter and look at both static and Rotary converters plans to get a better idea what you are dealing with. For the $128 or so for a new phase converter box that does everything except the motor starter why chance it.

Keith




chuckorlando said:
Thanks all.

The guy un hooked the electrics while I was trying to load it. So I aint sure whats what or how it worked. I think the 220 cord came into the 2hp gray motor and the "block" in this pic. Out of that block there was a 220 female plug and some smaller wires that run to the two switches. Out of the two switches there is a 110 male plug. I believe the motor on the mill had a male 220 plug that went into the female plug.

The guy removed the female 220 that I know of. I'm assuming he also took a male 220 plug off the mill motor.

So I think it went

1)220 in to gray motor
2)into the "block"
3)220 female plug and to the two switches
4)male 220 plug into 220 female and mill motor
Click to expand...
 
I have been looking into it all. I think I got it figured out how he done it via another thread on here. That black box in the gray elec box is a Sprecher + Schuh CA3-12. Motor starter relay. But far as I can tell it's a 110 relay.

I think ultimatly I still want a vfd. I'll use it for now then set it on a shelf I guess. If I need it I can use it then. The variable speed seems the way to go on a belt drive.

I just dont like the idea of using power to run a motor thats not being used.

Thanks for the help.

I did manage to strip all the paint down to metal short of about 10%. I'll smooth out the cast and paint it up then move it inside. As I tear it apart one piece at a time I can clean up the matting surfaces and clean up or replace the bolts and handles and all.
 
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