Plate for lathe dogs? 13" South Bend-Single 1 7/8 8 TPI

[Janderso]

Hey Gang,
I am thinking I need to gather up a way of using the dogs that hold all types of work. I see the dogs come in different sizes. My 13" SB has the 1 7/8 spindle threads with 8 TPI. I am showing a pic of the part as it appears to have a center mounted in the spindle as well. How do I find such a piece? How is the center mounted? What do you call the plate? That is a BIG one.
Thank you for your help.

 

[BenW]

If you have a morse taper in the spindle an apropriate center should fit in there. There's usually just a hole in the center of the drive plate to clear the spindle taper.

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[BenW]

Forgot to add; I think they're usually called 'lathe dog drive plate' or something along those lines. A standard faceplate with a stud bolted in one of the slots should accomplish the same thing.

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[Janderso]

If you have a morse taper in the spindle an apropriate center should fit in there. There's usually just a hole in the center of the drive plate to clear the spindle taper.

I just have a 1" hole. There has to be something that accommodates a M2 or M3 taper that slips into the spindle hole.

 

[dlane]

Not sure on a 13 my 10L has a proprietary taper”not standard “ I got miller machine shop to make a mt3 spindle adaptor
For it so I could use a dead center with the face plate

 

[Janderso]

Interesting, Miller Machine and I are old friends $$$$

 

[Technical Ted]

The plate is called a "face plate". You will most likely need an adapter to go from the spindle taper in your lathe to a #2 or #3 morse taper so you can use a center. The adapter will have a taper that is close to a morse taper angle, but an odd ball diameter. I made one for my 15" SB lathe, but got one when I bought my 13" SB. The only time I use the adapter is to hold centers when I regrind them with my tool post grinder.

You don't need a face plate to use a center and lathe dog. In fact, you don't even need the center. Take a piece of round stock and put it into a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and turn your compound to 30 degrees and turn a 60 degree taper on the stock. Now you have a center that runs perfectly true! Use a lathe dog to drive you work piece by putting the driving end of the dog up against one of your chuck jaws.

In all my years, I've used a face plate to hold odd shaped pieces, but have never used a center in the spindle with a face plate for turning between centers. I've always just used the method with a 4 jaw chuck I just described.

Works great for me,
Ted

 

[Janderso]

Ted, that is a simple solution to my question/s.
I think this forum is pretty darn terrific

 

[Technical Ted]

Here's some info that you might find useful. It gives dimensions for the spindle taper, etc..

http://www.wswells.com/data/spec_sheet/7324.pdf

Ted

 

[benmychree]

The plate is called a "face plate". You will most likely need an adapter to go from the spindle taper in your lathe to a #2 or #3 morse taper so you can use a center. The adapter will have a taper that is close to a morse taper angle, but an odd ball diameter. I made one for my 15" SB lathe, but got one when I bought my 13" SB. The only time I use the adapter is to hold centers when I regrind them with my tool post grinder.

You don't need a face plate to use a center and lathe dog. In fact, you don't even need the center. Take a piece of round stock and put it into a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and turn your compound to 30 degrees and turn a 60 degree taper on the stock. Now you have a center that runs perfectly true! Use a lathe dog to drive you work piece by putting the driving end of the dog up against one of your chuck jaws.

In all my years, I've used a face plate to hold odd shaped pieces, but have never used a center in the spindle with a face plate for turning between centers. I've always just used the method with a 4 jaw chuck I just described.

Works great for me,
Ted

The dog driving plate is always smaller than a faceplate; the faceplate is not intended to drive lathe dogs. Also the dog driving plate has one open slot from nearly the thread diameter and is open at the end of the OD of the plate.
Generally, the spindle ID taper is an odd diameter Morse taper and the ID is one size smaller Morse taper; you can usually use a morse taper sleeve cut down in length and the tang slot end removed to make a sleeve for the center. The headstock end center is generally left soft, not hardened, so that it can be cleaned up with a turning tool to run perfectly true without having to grind it. I make a witness mark on the spindle end, like a "O" and repeat it on the sleeve and center so that they can be inserted in the spindle and repeat closely with (lack of) runout.