Pm 1228-vf-lb Lathe Preparations

I still like the swamp idea.

Jerry in Delaware
 
I am curious what kind of runout you guys get on this lathe.

I just indicated the plate and it it slightly over 0.5 thous out of true towards the edge. The morse taper also has about 0.5 thous runout. After putting the chuck in and a straight rod, I measure 5.5 thous when indicating 2" away from the chuck jaws.

Not exactly sure what to make of these numbers, this is my first serious lathe.

cheers,
Cosmin
 
Alright, I went back to cleaning and remounting the chuck. I am getting about 1 thou and inch from the chuck jaws. May have been some dirt caught in between stuff. That is it, I am welding the chuck in place.

cheers,
Cosmin
 
I don't know that the rod I used is perfect. It was a 1/2" drill rod that came in set.

It has about the same run out I had on my old Grizzly G4000. It never created any problems that was aware of in the parts I made.
 
wm_crash said:
Alright, I went back to cleaning and remounting the chuck... May have been some dirt caught in between stuff.
Click to expand...

Always important to give a good wipe down of all the mating surfaces. Smashing grit or scarf in between the spindle and the chuck isn't a good thing.

Run-out in a 3 jaw chuck is normal. The scroll jaws don't always center perfectly. As long as you don't have to move the part in the chuck while cutting, that run-out doesn't matter. 0.0015" run-out is actually pretty good.

If you have to move the piece, that you have to shift to a 4 jaw (which you can dial down perfectly to 0) or to a 5C collet for cutting the workpiece additional times.

The bigger question is does it cut a taper. That is something you have to solve, assuming you are turning a long enough part for that to matter.

If you want your three jaw to be better, than the only way around that is to spend $900 and buy a Buck or Bison adjust-tru (set-to) 3 jaw chuck that can be dialed in after the part is chucked up.
 
If you don't have a ground pin you can snug up a edge finder in your chuck :black eye:
 
So today I made the first shavings on the lathe. I like it a lot better than my old Unimat DB.

There are two things I need to figure out. First off, the Shars AXA quickchange uses a different size rod, so I need to figure out what I do about that. Second thing, the compound gets stuck and can not be turned around freely. The problem is that one of the two nuts that are underneath, that you can use to lock the compound at a specific angle, somehow twists itself around in the channel around where the access hole is. Not sure that's something that's often used to change angles, or just the toolpost.

Overall, very nice feel. I ended up making some stainless steel bushings for the wheelbarrow of a guy working on my basement. He deserves better than plastic crap.

cheers,
Cosmin
 
So far, I've no complaints on the performance of my 1228, Cosmin.

I don't remember what brand AXA QCTP I got, but the bolt was a fit on my lathe. It doesn't screw all the way down to the end of its threads, but that doesn't seem to matter. In fact, I had another one that came with a different brand AXA I had on my old G-4000 that also fit.

I'm not picturing what your issue is with the Compound bolts. If I remember, there are two t-nuts under block that the compound mounts to that you loosen to rotate the compound. There are four bolts that attach the base under the compound that can be loosened so you can slide the compound backward and forward on the cross slide.
 
Still trying to get my terminology right :) So it's one of those two t-nuts. There is a hole on the underside of the block to remove/insert the t-nuts. During usage, when you rotate the compound, once a t-nut ends up in that hole, it doesn't slide back in the t-slot it's supposed to sit in.

cheers,
Cosmin
 
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