PM 833T Milling Machine Stand by Hack Welder

INTJ

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Mar 5, 2018
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A couple weeks ago I realized I needed a larger milling machine. In an unusually rapid sequence of events, I sold my PM 727V and an AR Highpower package within a couple hours of listing and with that gained enough funds to get an 833T. Of course, Matt had one left in stock so less than two weeks after making the decision I had an 833T in my garage. Matt didn’t have any stands, only chip trays so I had to make my own stand.

Now I am not a welder. I have managed to figure out how to stick mild steel together well enough to be sturdy with my Lincoln 140HD, but it’s not pretty and I am very slow. My stand also wasn’t cheap. I spent about $400 in steel, the feet, paint, etc. Regardless, I overbuilt a stand that works well.

I made it 24” x 30” and about 33” tall. 24” is the max width you can use your Pittsburg Two-Ton engine house with when set on 1 ton. I wound up 4-5” shy of the depth I needed when placing on the stand, but by running the table forward I was able to swing the mill back enough to get the front bolts started. It has plenty of reach on the 1/2 ton setting but is a bit bouncy on the hoist.

The top is 1/4” plate. The legs are 2” tube 3/16” thick and the cross pieces are 1/8” 2” tube. 1/4” plate on the bottom of each leg to hold the adjusters—1/2x13 and 5000 lbs load each. I used black “hammered” paint that is the perfect shade of gray to match the chip tray.

Notice it’s built so it’s not relying on the welds to support any weight. I do have one middle brace under the top plate.

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Came out really nice and looks more than solid enough - good job!

Any plans to enclose the sides and back? My friend built a stand that is similar to yours and his shelves filled with chips in short order. He got tired of vacuuming it out every time he used the mill so he put some thin plywood and is very happy now.
 
Looks great INTJ. I would echo what Mike said about the chips.
 
I would think the chip pan would keep chips out of the underneath, but if not I certainly can enclose it. Might be good to use sheet metal. Probably attach it with screws. Maybe even make doors on the front and the left side.
 
A couple weeks ago I realized I needed a larger milling machine. In an unusually rapid sequence of events, I sold my PM 727V and an AR Highpower package within a couple hours of listing and with that gained enough funds to get an 833T. Of course, Matt had one left in stock so less than two weeks after making the decision I had an 833T in my garage. Matt didn’t have any stands, only chip trays so I had to make my own stand.

Now I am not a welder. I have managed to figure out how to stick mild steel together well enough to be sturdy with my Lincoln 140HD, but it’s not pretty and I am very slow. My stand also wasn’t cheap. I spent about $400 in steel, the feet, paint, etc. Regardless, I overbuilt a stand that works well.

I made it 24” x 30” and about 33” tall. 24” is the max width you can use your Pittsburg Two-Ton engine house with when set on 1 ton. I wound up 4-5” shy of the depth I needed when placing on the stand, but by running the table forward I was able to swing the mill back enough to get the front bolts started. It has plenty of reach on the 1/2 ton setting but is a bit bouncy on the hoist.

The top is 1/4” plate. The legs are 2” tube 3/16” thick and the cross pieces are 1/8” 2” tube. 1/4” plate on the bottom of each leg to hold the adjusters—1/2x13 and 5000 lbs load each. I used black “hammered” paint that is the perfect shade of gray to match the chip tray.

Notice it’s built so it’s not relying on the welds to support any weight. I do have one middle brace under the top plate.

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A very nice job! It will serve you well.

It is nearly identical to one that I built for my mill/drill thirty-some years ago. The differences being, I didn't use a piece of steel plate for the top surface and I don't have adjustable feet. Mine is 24" x 30" as well but 30" overall height. I also used the 2" x 3/16" square tubing but with two additional cross pieces under the mounting holes for the mill/drill. I used 1-1/2" x 3/16" square tubing for the lower two shelves, continuing the double cross pieces which provided enough support that the shelf material is 1/4" plywood.

I see that you ran into the same problem of having to notch the shelves. In my case, the upper shelf only has 7" of clearance so I had to bend the plywood to get it in.

As I recall, mine weighed in at around 200 lbs. but steel was only about $.25/lb. back then.
 
I had to trim the bottom shelf but not the top—which makes me wonder if I just didn’t try hard enough on the bottom shelf. My stands weighs around 160 lbs. The adjusters are critical on my 1” per 4’ sloped garage floor and these adjusters are great.

I just looked and sheet metal sides are spendy. Oh well......
 
It looks plenty strong from here!
-brino
 
For me, welding is like performing music in front of people, versus practicing in your room. LOL
Your stand looks nice and straight, that's more important than the ugly welds, and they don't look that bad. Everything looks better painted :)
mark
 
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