Pm1340gt Lathe Basic Vfd Control Conversion Using The Stock Control Board And Switches

I flipped the switch and success!!! All this work is starting to pay off haha. I downloaded the driver and software and began the changing of my parameters. First thing I did was auto tune the motor. I also went through and performed most of the parameter changes indicated in your tutorial. From the software I am able to run the spindle forward/Reverse and change the Hz to change spindle speed. When I move the drive lever up and down I can hear the contacts clicking on and off. I can also hear contact clicking when pressing the jog button. My light goes on and off with the E-stop. I feel like I'm nearly there :)

So I believe my next step is to wire up the logic controls and I need a little bit more detail if you have the time. I can see from the tutorial that wires come from the contacts, 1 from both contacts L1 to P24, and then wires from each contactor T1 go to VFD terminal 1 and 2 respectively. This is where I start to get lost. I can't see from the picture where the wire comes from that connects to VFD terminal 3. Also the wires that connect to VFD terminals ( H, O, and L) where are those originating from? Also it looks like I need to my my current jumper over one spot from its current location.
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What style of connectors are you using for the logic terminal? I've not seen anything like this before? Again thank you for the help its greatly appreciated.
 
chocadile said:
What style of connectors are you using for the logic terminal? I've not seen anything like this before? Again thank you for the help its greatly appreciated.
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Use wire ferrules, same as is on the end of the jumper. The wire/ferrule will push in but to release you need a small flat screw driver to push in the slot above .
 
The wiring ferrules work very well, I usually use the orange ones and 18-22AWG control wires. You need a crimper for the ferrules. So something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...Tool-800-Connector-Terminal-Kit-/322191937643 . Do not use solid core control wire, in my experience it will fatigue and break with vibration. Alternatively you could also try to use some solder to tin the ends of something like 18AWG wire.

The control wiring is as follows using source logic, and programing the inputs according to their specific action:
WJ200 Wiring Connections.jpg
 
Thanks you guys. I am getting the tool and connectors on order today. Can you get me a pic of the control board as well? I'd like to see where the wires are originating from on the board.
 
It is shown on page 6 of the instructions. VFD input terminal 3 would be used if you a dual pole (2 contact blocks) jog switch, one NO contact block operates the contactor, the other NO contact block connects P24 to input 3 when the switch is depressed. So input 3 sets the lower jog frequency if used.
WJ200 Simple Wiring Connections.jpg
 
Hey everyone,

I got my new crimps and crimp tool in late last week. I just got some time today to get the logic controls wired and everything is working like it's supposed too. I again want to say thanks to everyone who helped out. This seemed like a very daunting task for me but, it turned out to be not that difficult. Mark this wouldn't have been possible without your help and patience. I'm happy there's a resource like Hobby Machinist for this kind of information.
 
Just a quick update and question for you everyone. Well update for everyone and question for Mark haha. I've been using my lathe since getting everything hooked up and running. Here are some battery terminals I machined for a prototype my company is working on. It's nothing to crazy but, it was nice to finally be able to throw some chips.
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My question is about wiring in my coolant pump. Is it as simple a process as connecting them to the terminal block on the control board and ground in the enclosure?
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So I made an educated guess. I look at the specs of my pump and since the motor is 220, I decided to connect to the terminal block opposite of the incoming power to the board. Pump is now working.
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I have heard of folks upgrading the motors in these to inverter duty motors. My understanding is that this is very important for higher voltage motors and not as important for a gearhead lathe because you aren't operating the motor off of it's design point too much. Can someone share some personal experience with this? Will the stock 3 phase motor work just fine with an inverter? Has anyone detected any too-hot motors while using a VFD? Thanks.
 
smk-machine said:
I have heard of folks upgrading the motors in these to inverter duty motors. My understanding is that this is very important for higher voltage motors and not as important for a gearhead lathe because you aren't operating the motor off of it's design point too much. Can someone share some personal experience with this? Will the stock 3 phase motor work just fine with an inverter? Has anyone detected any too-hot motors while using a VFD? Thanks.
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Welcome aboard!

I have been using VFDs on non-inverter rated motors for years. I can run my mill from about 10 - 6000 RPM, using a Baldor 3hp motor, and a sensorless vector VFD. I converted my mill to direct drive last summer, so the only speed adjustment is the VFD and Hi/Lo gear. At low speeds, the idle current is about 57% then it drops off to 24% as the speed is increased to about 1800 RPM, at about 3500 RPM the current draw is back up to about 40%. The motor temperature rise is generally just a few degrees above ambient. Before the conversion, I normally limited the Hz range from 30 to 90 Hz. I ran my other mill, with an import motor between 30 and 120 Hz for about 10 years with no problems.
 
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