PM25 Owners

I traded emails with Matt today and know they have 20s... have asked since whether 25s are also in stock.

For all of my current and immediately forseeable purposes, the smaller SX3 variants would serve me quite well. I just don't need bigger. However, once I really figured true cost for the 3960 with a z axis dro and tach and shipping, I'm at or over the PM20 shipped as currently priced and have a lighter, smaller unit with less capacity and travel. The PM unit gives me some room to grow at only the cost of some floor space.

As to 20 v 25, it comes down to space and maneuverability. My narrow shop is already a bit cramped (table saw, mitre station, wood lathe, grinder, dp, bandsaw, rollaround dust collector, benches) so I'll have to rearrange and, maybe, eliminate something. Good chance I'll eliminate the permanent mitre station and just create a mitre station I can setup and breakdown as necessary. I might have to limit myself to the 20 depending on "elbow room" and because the 35 lb savings might make future adjustments a hair easier. Again, since I don't really NEED the extra size and juice of the PMs right now, I don't consider that a huge sacrifice. Wish I could put the mill on wheels!

I do have some limited tooling already (end mills, setup blocks, clamps, vise, and measuring/setup stuff like a dial test indicator, machinist level and squares), but will need to order some collets and other items. I'll be working on that list this weekend, too, so feel free to throw out any suggestions. Again, I really appreciate your time and answersnto my questions... you've been a big help.
 
Henry, you can put your mill on wheels! :)

I don't remember exactly what they're called, but Grizzly has these adjustable machine stands that you put the mill's stand into. I looked at doing this but decided to put it on a tool box lower instead to get the machine up to a better height for me.

The 20 and 25 are the same machine, you just give up a little table size with the 20. Either should do what you want to do.

Edit: I ordered Matt's R8 collet set along with my 25 and like the quality of these. FYI...

Bill
 
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Does anyone know offhand the footprint dimensions for the stand? Couldn't find a spec sheet for the 20/25/30 on the pm website.
 
I'll go measure mine in a bit. Gotta wake up first. :)

Did you find the machine mounts I was talking about?

Edit: I found it.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/D2260A

My base is about 16.5" x 13.25" (odd measurements, probably metric). But the above mobile base was the one I was looking at.

Bill
 
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Thanks? Got waylaid today so didn't get the reorg and planning I'd hoped. I did check out that mobile base, as well as some made by HTC. The only concern I have after thinking about that is leveling. If I level the stand and tram the mill in one location, will I cause myself an issue when/if I move it? Perhaps I'd be better off making something less calibrated, like my bandsaw or DP mobile and try to set up the mill stationary? What do you think? Much ado about nothing, or a real concern. My shop floor is concrete and fairly smooth/level, but I'm sure it has variation.
 
Hey Henry,

IMO, leveling a lathe or mill is no where near as important as making sure you do not induce twist or stress into a machine's frame by bolting it to an uneven surface. The Navy has been using machines on board ship that have never been level for more than an instant (with respect to earth's gravity well) but are well secured with no twist or induced stress.

My lathe sits on a tool box that is stable, and it has securing bolts that are barely snug as they are for keeping the machine from moving around, not for bolting the bed to a registration surface. Works very well and is quite accurate.

In the case of my mill, this is even more important as it carries more of it's weight higher/away from it's base than a lathe does and needs to be secured so it doesn't tip over. Safety first! :)

I will have to level the mill's tool box because the floor where I need it to be is not even and only three wheels are in contact with the concrete at any point in time. This is not acceptable from a safety standpoint.

I've already trammed the mill, then today I loosely bolted it down to the 3/8ths plate and 3/4" plywood. I will level the tool box with a basic digital level and I bet the tram doesn't shift to any degree that I can measure or care about. I will be sure to let you know if it does.

I am not suggesting a course of action for you. I do believe that these machines should be as near level as possible if for no other reason than safety. If it is still a concern, then your suggestion of mounting the mill in a permanent position and making the DP or something else portable would be what I would do.

As you can tell, I'm uncomfortable with telling you that you have to do things a specific way, as we have enough of that on these internet boards. I'm just telling you what I did/do and why, and then you are free to process that information in the context of your specific needs. Or not. :roflmao:

Hope I didn't confuse the issue for you.

Bill
 
Not confusing at all... just trying to leverage the experience of someone whose been there/done that, and two minds are better than one. Plus, I've been accused more than once of overthinking things. I may put them all on mobile bases. Ordering the HSC 2000 model via amazon... a bit better reviews, and will be easier to repeat height settings than with the screw foot on the grizzly/shop fox model. Will let you know how it goes.
 
Found a HTC 2000 mobile machine base. Is this the one you are getting? I saved it to my Amazon favorites as I may have use for that, thanks. :)

Currently I'm embroiled in mounting the glass scales for my DRO on the 25. Getting the backing rails mounted is not that big a deal. But as my new shop has only been in existence for less than a year, I don't have the selection of material I had in my old shop yet, so fabricating the pieces for the read heads is basically cobble together something with what I have on hand (which is various small pieces of mostly aluminum at this point). It won't be pretty, but it will be functional.

I bought Chris's (LMS) 4" professional vise for my new machine and set it loose up on the table yesterday. Not a bad little vise for the money, and decent specs. I wanted a Glacern or Tormach but with the money I saved I will be able to buy other tools that I need. As I said, getting the machine is just the start. I figure that I'll have most of the basic tooling I need after spending about 2 times more than the cost of the machine itself. But my definition of 'basic' might be a bit more than what others would define it as. :LOL:

Bill
 
Sorry, typo... yes, the HTC2000 is what I've ordered. Will keep you posted.

Re: dro, are you happy with the pre-installed quill-dro and only installing a 2-axis, or are you doing a full 3-axis?
 
I'm doing a full 3-axis install as the quill will spend most of it's life fully retracted and locked when milling. I will use the quill dro when I am doing drilling and need that level of accuracy though.

Bill
 
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