POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[jwmay]

Is there a better way?

Maybe. But that’s how it did it too. Should have measured sooner, as to not cut too deeply. My calibrated eye was .022” off yesterday.

 

[Suzuki4evr]

Done... just need to clean some of the JB-Weld that is out of place... this was just for fun... however long it last...

View attachment 457449

View attachment 457450

I always thought when will someone do something like this.

 

[GoceKU]

Last few days have been very busy, but today i had few hours to do some work in my big garage. I've been taking apart few engines and i've quickly run out of space in my french engine shelf. So i bought couple pieces of square tubing and used some staff i had around to make this ugly shelf. I just finish applying some primer protective paint and still need to strengthen the legs, find some wood or sheet metal to cover the shelves. This should take me all of a week to fill it, also i still need to make improvements in storing my hand and power tools, i just spent an hour looking for my cordless drill just to found it next to the door.

 

[pontiac428]

Yesterday's project. I milled up a T-nut for mounting the Holdridge radii cutter to the lathe with a proper fit. Happy little chips and a nice straight hand tapped threads.

 

[Rex Walters]

i just spent an hour looking for my cordless drill

I've installed countless shelves and drawers and toolboxes and organizers. I've even gotten into the habit of putting things back where they belong. I now have everything at least somewhat organized, and waste much less time rummaging around for tools whenever I start a project.

But, of course, that hasn't helped one iota with IT WAS JUST IN MY HAND FIVE MINUTES AGO!! WHERE CAN THE BLASTED THING HAVE GONE?!!

That still accounts for at least 30% of my time in the shop.

It used to be closer to 50% until I got smart and put a sharpie on a retractable cord on my apron, and made dedicated pockets for

• a pencil,
• 4R and flexible 6" rules,
• a scribe with magnet,
• a 6" adjustable square,
• a tiny fixed square (mostly for the mill vise),
• 3/16" and 5/32" hex keys,
• tweezers,
• a cheap flat/phillips miniature reversible screwdriver,
• a small tape measure
• and an Olfa razor knife.

I've mostly trained myself to only put those things back in their respective pockets. I may look ridiculous, but if it's physically on me, I've at least got a fighting chance!

If I add a pocket for 6" digital calipers, I might get it down to 20%.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

First practice run at the worm bushing. Surprised that I was able to make .025 cuts without chatter using that tiny boring bar. Over shot the ID by .040 but a good learning experience. Will see if I can do better on the OD!

 

[Rex Walters]

Over shot the ID by .040

Congrats on your first lathe! It won't be more than a few days until that seems like a country mile. (It probably won't be your last lathe — there may be twelve step programs available.)

One thing someone taught me long ago that's helped immensely: rough in increments of the biggest round number you can take, and aim for no more than two finishing passes of somewhere between 0.002" and 0.010". With a boring bar on brass/aluminum in a Sherline, 0.025" seems reasonable for roughing. Once you're within 0.025", take off half of what's remaining, take a measurement, then take one final pass.

You want your final finishing DOC to be roughly the same amount as your penultimate pass so that you know what to expect. Splitting the finish passes in half gives you a mulligan on finding the optimal speed/feed for a decent finish and avoiding surprises.

It's hard to cut less than 0.002" in a pass with normal turning/boring tools, you'll usually end up just rubbing and deflecting the material unless you have very sharp tools. OTOH, for turning an OD, nothing beats a shear tool for optimal surface finish and it can't take off more than 0.002" in a pass.

 

[Provincial]

I've installed countless shelves and drawers and toolboxes and organizers. I've even gotten into the habit of putting things back where they belong. I now have everything at least somewhat organized, and waste much less time rummaging around for tools whenever I start a project.

But, of course, that hasn't helped one iota with IT WAS JUST IN MY HAND FIVE MINUTES AGO!! WHERE CAN THE BLASTED THING HAVE GONE?!!

That still accounts for at least 30% of my time in the shop.

It used to be closer to 50% until I got smart and put a sharpie on a retractable cord on my apron, and made dedicated pockets for

• a pencil,
• 4R and flexible 6" rules,
• a scribe with magnet,
• a 6" adjustable square,
• a tiny fixed square (mostly for the mill vise),
• 3/16" and 5/32" hex keys,
• tweezers,
• a cheap flat/phillips miniature reversible screwdriver,
• a small tape measure
• and an Olfa razor knife.

I've mostly trained myself to only put those things back in their respective pockets. I may look ridiculous, but if it's physically on me, I've at least got a fighting chance!

If I add a pocket for 6" digital calipers, I might get it down to 20%.

Professor Gadget!

 

[matthewsx]

Congrats on your first lathe! It won't be more than a few days until that seems like a country mile. (It probably won't be your last lathe — there may be twelve step programs available.)

One thing someone taught me long ago that's helped immensely: rough in increments of the biggest round number you can take, and aim for no more than two finishing passes of somewhere between 0.002" and 0.010". With a boring bar on brass/aluminum in a Sherline, 0.025" seems reasonable for roughing. Once you're within 0.025", take off half of what's remaining, take a measurement, then take one final pass.

You want your final finishing DOC to be roughly the same amount as your penultimate pass so that you know what to expect. Splitting the finish passes in half gives you a mulligan on finding the optimal speed/feed for a decent finish and avoiding surprises.

It's hard to cut less than 0.002" in a pass with normal turning/boring tools, you'll usually end up just rubbing and deflecting the material unless you have very sharp tools. OTOH, for turning an OD, nothing beats a shear tool for optimal surface finish and it can't take off more than 0.002" in a pass.

Also, remember to let the material cool, heat expansion is real....

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Congrats on your first lathe! It won't be more than a few days until that seems like a country mile. (It probably won't be your last lathe — there may be twelve step programs available.)

One thing someone taught me long ago that's helped immensely: rough in increments of the biggest round number you can take, and aim for no more than two finishing passes of somewhere between 0.002" and 0.010". With a boring bar on brass/aluminum in a Sherline, 0.025" seems reasonable for roughing. Once you're within 0.025", take off half of what's remaining, take a measurement, then take one final pass.

You want your final finishing DOC to be roughly the same amount as your penultimate pass so that you know what to expect. Splitting the finish passes in half gives you a mulligan on finding the optimal speed/feed for a decent finish and avoiding surprises.

It's hard to cut less than 0.002" in a pass with normal turning/boring tools, you'll usually end up just rubbing and deflecting the material unless you have very sharp tools. OTOH, for turning an OD, nothing beats a shear tool for optimal surface finish and it can't take off more than 0.002" in a pass.

Also, remember to let the material cool, heat expansion is real....

Thanks for the input Rex and matthewsx!
Was attempting to sneak up on the final cut that should have left me .013 to finish with. Number of possible error points but I should have measured after each of the final three cuts to catch sooner.
Nice thing is that the part is just a mock up to learn on so performing perfectly in that role.