Powering a 1HP BLDC Lathe in a Van

You can buy a generator that is 12/24/110 V or 12/24/240 V single phase that replaces your alternator and I have been told there are alternators available. We used to run the generators on our work trucks and had outlets strategically placed around the vehicle. It meant running the engine but having 240 V available made a huge difference in the field. Voltage was set at what your battery system was for DC and you drew off the batteries and the AC was switch on/off. Easy enough to rig it for land power with a caravan connector when close to a building.
 
Having spent many overnight hours in a fiber splicing rig, I've just got to jump into this one. The first point is that running an automotive engine at light load but high RPM is going to be expensive. Not just in fuel but in maintenance as well. Depending on the vehicle, sit idling at 2400 to 3600 RPM. If you luck into a diesel, drop that down to 1800-2400 RPM. Alternators do not have much output at idle, they need to run at highway speed to get anything useful. Take note of how much the engine "rattles" at fast idle. Even a new engine will sound loose.

The bucket truck had a PTO, but the engine had to run at a fast idle to get 540 RPM at the PTO. We used a small generator instead, mounted behind the cab. Actually, it was a home brew rig, had to run a hydraulic pump too. (I'national S-1600 V-8 diesel) The generator and pump didn't run all the time, just when the bucket had to move. The engine had to be replaced every year or so. Much less expensive than replacing a truck engine.

The splicing trailer had its' own generator, mounted on the tongue of the trailer. Along with a small air compressor. Inside the trailer was a "clean room", with over pressure air conditioning. Fiber optics have little tolerance for airborn dust.

This is not meant to be a "downer" on what you have planned. But having run for several years at a commercial level, I can say that using the propulsion engine for such auxilliary use is a bad move. It would be far better to use a small camper dedicated (Onan?) generator rigged into an external enclosure. The exhaust pipe on a van would need to be rerouted toward the front. Not so easy to do. A camper generator will have the necessary piping, you would only have to supply an airtight box.

I can vouch for the comments regarding the indigenous constabulary being nosy. But, that's what they are paid to do. Have some sort of window! Even that won't stop interruptions, but it will cut down the curiosity to more reasonable levels.

I agree with the above comment about using the van as a camper and a trailer as the shop. Not only would you have a place to sleep without picking up chips, it would smell better too. And you never know, you may drop the trailer in a secure location and still have the van to get around without all that weight.

An E-300 van VS a 16 ft trailer~~~ The trailer would be easier to stand up in. Unless you're well over six feet, which I am.

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I am starting to understand why you don’t see many mobile machine shops!

I can see that this idea can be made to work in a trailer, but I don’t have room to store a trailer at home. The largest vehicle that I have room for at home is a full sized van or truck of standard length. If it is as long as a king cab with an 8 foot bed, the parking at home would present a challenge.

Maybe I could scale down to a quality lathe of minimum size. Setting aside the idea of a van and looking at a truck, I could have a generator completely separated (with regard to air exchange) from the work compartment.

If a truck with a standard cab and an 8 foot bed were used, you would have enough room for the generator and a work compartment. This is where the 10X30 lathe leaves the conversation due to its size, so now we are talking about a little Sherline lathe.

If we assume that a quality generator providing ample power is chosen, we have only to soundproof the generator (out of consideration for the public) and try to make a work compartment that is not an eyesore.

The rigs that farriers use are right on the cusp of being an eyesore. Entering the vehicle from the rear, a man door to the work compartment is on one side and flush with the rear of the vehicle (no tailgate). A generator compartment is also flush with the rear of the truck; this would allow easy access to the generator (for installation, service and replacement).

As far as the work compartment goes, the color & exterior lines could match the contour of the truck. I could have plenty of large windows (for air quality) with just enough security bars to prevent a thief from climbing in.

The only problem that I see with this idea is the need for some sort of air dam on top of the cab. This sounds like an opportunity to grab some storage space!
 
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I second the Honda external generator idea. We used them many times for field work in residential neighborhoods with no problem with it placed outside the truck. We were using the 2000W version and with just a solid plastic laundry basket over it (holes for inlet and exhaust) the noise level was about ambient at 10 feet distance. We never had a complaint from fussy residents. They are pricey but well worth it and a lot cheaper than a special van rig. Easy to maintain and very reliable. As mentioned, get genuine Honda.
 
Two additional points:

(1) There is a defined stigma on RVs and campers in my city due to a homelessness issue.

(2) I did not choose a flatbed because the overall height becomes so high for a 6’6” interior height work compartment.
 
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gradient said:
I second the Honda external generator idea. We used them many times for field work in residential neighborhoods with no problem with it placed outside the truck. We were using the 2000W version and with just a solid plastic laundry basket over it (holes for inlet and exhaust) the noise level was about ambient at 10 feet distance. We never had a complaint from fussy residents. They are pricey but well worth it and a lot cheaper than a special van rig. Easy to maintain and very reliable. As mentioned, get genuine Honda.
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Great tip. I would want to be able to easily remove and replace the generator.

There is no need to connect the shop electronics to the vehicle’s electronics.
 
Honda generators are great. The EU2000's are very quiet and can be paralleled for more power to run air conditioners, etc. They are also quickly and frequently stolen.
 
Well, let’s see how secure of a box I can build to frustrate a thief!
 
This whole project is going to cost me my larger lathe. There are not enough funds for a mobile lathe vehicle and a 14-16” swing lathe.
 
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