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- Jan 25, 2015
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- 2,558
This is kind of a hydraulic quesion, so this seems like the right forum. the mods can feel free to move the thread if it's not the right place.
Several years ago, when my Dad passed on, I inherited his old pressure washer. I had to clean it up and set some things right when I got it as Dad was a "use it until it ides and buy another one" kind of guy. I doubt he even changed the oil in the years he owned it. He didn't use it much, but every year he would just push it into the shed and leave it there in freezing temps. I still don't understand how it didn't freeze and burst, but it's still working today so it must be a fairly tough little thing.
When I got it I did the required maint and then just used it, figuring it wouldn't last much longer. I've used it for about seven years now and this year, I decided to give it a little "refresh" beyond the seasonal maint. I took it apart, cleaned it up and did all those little things like required seasonal maint, touched up paint chips, cleaned out the mud wasp nests in the cooling fins, ultrasonic the carb, painted the muffler shroud etc. the engine internals and pump I left alone. Working fine, no need to pull it apart and jsut incur added costs for nothing. Besides, it's old enough now that I didn't want to risk ruining some "unobtainable" part from inside it.
It's nothing special. Somewhere around 20 years old and (at the time) an entry level K'Archer G2000Mk. Gas engine, 2000 psi, 2.0 gpm.
Cleaned up:
As it's given me reasonable service over the years, I decided to "kit it out" a little more. I added a 50 foot "Flexilla" hose and a new gun/wand. I also added some quick connects as well as buying a "foam cannon" and an undercarriage washer.
But, Seems I didn't pay attention when ordering the new gun as it came with 4000 psi nozzles. On anything besides the "soap" nozzle, the pump will run for a short while and then the overloader valve in the pump will pop. It will cycle though the pump for a few seconds and then build pressure again. the cycle will repeat every minute of so. 20-30 seconds or so.
Can be a little bit of an annoyance, but more importantly, not good for the pump.
I can get the overloader to stop it's cycling by reducing the engine rpms (and reducing he subsequent pressure in the pump), but running a small engine on less than the spec'd rpms isn't a good idea with it's simple splash lube oil system. I'd rather keep it running at the spec'd 3400 rpm (governed) rather than risk it not lubing itself properly. It's made it this long, last thing I want to do is spin a rod bearing surface or something like that. .
The foam cannon and the undercarriage washer are no problem. They don't build a lot of pressure on the pump because they are such high flow.
I've found a website with a chart specifying nozzle diameter per flow rate/pressure and it seems I should be using a 0.043" orifice.
Charts are here: https://www.ultimatewasher.com/nozzles-size-pressure-washer.htm
Seems a 4000 psi nozzle at roughly 2.0 gpm is 0.034".
It also appears these newer style interchangeable nozzles don't come as low as 2000 psi in my little unit's 2.0 gpm rate. Or at least I can't find any down around 2000 psi that use the 1/4" connectors on the newer guns/wands.
So, now we get to the questions:
Anyone think I can chuck the nozzles up in my mill and enlarge the orifice to the 0.042/0.043" I need for my Dad's little pressure washer?
If yes, would a drill be sufficient or should I ream? Can you even get a reamer that small?
I do have two sets of the 400 psi nozzles (the foam cannon also came with a set of the same nozzles). I guess I could sacrifice one set to see what happens....
Several years ago, when my Dad passed on, I inherited his old pressure washer. I had to clean it up and set some things right when I got it as Dad was a "use it until it ides and buy another one" kind of guy. I doubt he even changed the oil in the years he owned it. He didn't use it much, but every year he would just push it into the shed and leave it there in freezing temps. I still don't understand how it didn't freeze and burst, but it's still working today so it must be a fairly tough little thing.
When I got it I did the required maint and then just used it, figuring it wouldn't last much longer. I've used it for about seven years now and this year, I decided to give it a little "refresh" beyond the seasonal maint. I took it apart, cleaned it up and did all those little things like required seasonal maint, touched up paint chips, cleaned out the mud wasp nests in the cooling fins, ultrasonic the carb, painted the muffler shroud etc. the engine internals and pump I left alone. Working fine, no need to pull it apart and jsut incur added costs for nothing. Besides, it's old enough now that I didn't want to risk ruining some "unobtainable" part from inside it.
It's nothing special. Somewhere around 20 years old and (at the time) an entry level K'Archer G2000Mk. Gas engine, 2000 psi, 2.0 gpm.
Cleaned up:
As it's given me reasonable service over the years, I decided to "kit it out" a little more. I added a 50 foot "Flexilla" hose and a new gun/wand. I also added some quick connects as well as buying a "foam cannon" and an undercarriage washer.
But, Seems I didn't pay attention when ordering the new gun as it came with 4000 psi nozzles. On anything besides the "soap" nozzle, the pump will run for a short while and then the overloader valve in the pump will pop. It will cycle though the pump for a few seconds and then build pressure again. the cycle will repeat every minute of so. 20-30 seconds or so.
Can be a little bit of an annoyance, but more importantly, not good for the pump.
I can get the overloader to stop it's cycling by reducing the engine rpms (and reducing he subsequent pressure in the pump), but running a small engine on less than the spec'd rpms isn't a good idea with it's simple splash lube oil system. I'd rather keep it running at the spec'd 3400 rpm (governed) rather than risk it not lubing itself properly. It's made it this long, last thing I want to do is spin a rod bearing surface or something like that. .
The foam cannon and the undercarriage washer are no problem. They don't build a lot of pressure on the pump because they are such high flow.
I've found a website with a chart specifying nozzle diameter per flow rate/pressure and it seems I should be using a 0.043" orifice.
Charts are here: https://www.ultimatewasher.com/nozzles-size-pressure-washer.htm
Seems a 4000 psi nozzle at roughly 2.0 gpm is 0.034".
It also appears these newer style interchangeable nozzles don't come as low as 2000 psi in my little unit's 2.0 gpm rate. Or at least I can't find any down around 2000 psi that use the 1/4" connectors on the newer guns/wands.
So, now we get to the questions:
Anyone think I can chuck the nozzles up in my mill and enlarge the orifice to the 0.042/0.043" I need for my Dad's little pressure washer?
If yes, would a drill be sufficient or should I ream? Can you even get a reamer that small?
I do have two sets of the 400 psi nozzles (the foam cannon also came with a set of the same nozzles). I guess I could sacrifice one set to see what happens....
