[Bandsaw] Problem With Craftsman 101.2290 Bandsaw

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filecard

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I have had this saw for at least ten years and it has always worked well. A month or so ago I broke the blade (again!) and decided it was time to by a new blade for it, instead of brazing the old one together (again !?!?)
I got a Lennox bi-metallic blade... but it was too long! So I had to cut it and braze it (again !?!?!!!)
Unfortunately, when I installed the new blade, I could not get it to stay on the upper (driven) wheel. It keeps walking off the bottom of the wheel.
After much fiddling around I decided that there was excessive clearance in the bronze bushing, possibly allowing the wheel to tilt when applying tension.
I made a new bushing with almost NO clearance..... It didn't help! After much 'poking around', I did notice that there was no tire on the bottom wheel... not sure if there ever was one!?!? I am assuming that there should be one but don't see how this could cause my problem.... only kill the set on one side of the blade.
Does anyone know of a source for a tire? More importantly, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this problem.
Note: as I was typing this, I realized that if, when shortening and brazing the blade, I didn't get the two ends parallel, this could possibly cause the "walking" problem! I have a little jig that I have been using for years and it always worked fine, but it is possible that something moved during the braze operation.
I will check this in the morning, but in the mean time, does anyone have any other ideas?
 
Last edited:
As far as I know, every Metal cutting band saw I've owned never had a tire.
The teeth never touched the wheel.
 
roadie33 said:
As far as I know, every Metal cutting band saw I've owned never had a tire.
The teeth never touched the wheel.
Click to expand...
My metal cutting bandsaw has no tires and never did (my wood cutting bandsaw does have tires). The wheels are just enough narrower than the blade to let the teeth hang over. Seems unlikely that only one wheel would have a tire, though.
 
filecard said:
I have had this saw for at least ten years and it has always worked well. A month or so ago I broke the blade (again!) and decided it was time to by a new blade for it, instead of brazing the old one together (again !?!?)
I got a Lennox bi-metallic blade... but it was too long! So I had to cut it and braze it (again !?!?!!!)
Unfortunately, when I installed the new blade, I could not get it to stay on the upper (driven) wheel. It keeps walking off the bottom of the wheel.
After much fiddling around I decided that there was excessive clearance in the bronze bushing, possibly allowing the wheel to tilt when applying tension.
I made a new bushing with almost NO clearance..... It didn't help! After much 'poking around', I did notice that there was no tire on the bottom wheel... not sure if there ever was one!?!? I am assuming that there should be one but don't see how this could cause my problem.... only kill the set on one side of the blade.
Does anyone know of a source for a tire? More importantly, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this problem.
Note: as I was typing this, I realized that if, when shortening and brazing the blade, I didn't get the two ends parallel, this could possibly cause the "walking" problem! I have a little jig that I have been using for years and it always worked fine, but it is possible that something moved during the braze operation.
I will check this in the morning, but in the mean time, does anyone have any other ideas?
Click to expand...
Getting the joint cockeyed is guaranteed to cause the blade to come off. Been there, done that.
 
My 2290 has tires on both wheels. I've attached the instruction manual for reference. I had to shim the rectangular plate that positions the idler wheel shaft (part 35) to keep the blade on the wheel. Not sure this is your problem though.

Tom S.
 

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  • Craftsman 101.2290 Band Saw Manual.pdf
    818.6 KB · Views: 15
I had one of these bandsaws and had the same issue when I tried the bi metal blades. I think they are too stiff to make the quick transition from the rear, (drive) wheel to the rear guide. I worked with mine for some time and even made a tracking adjustment for the tension wheel. None of this helped; I sent it down the road when I got tired of hunting down non bi-metal blades at a decent price.
 
Sorry for the double post, but it is supposed to have a rubber tire. As of a couple years ago sears still had the rubber bands that go on the cast iron wheels
 
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