Project advise needed

If it were me, and I didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff to fixture it (like a bullnose- that's a tool that will save 15 minutes once a year because barrel plugs with centers are too easy), I would use scroll chuck internal jaws (first operation, right?) and support the very end in your steady rest. That should leave you with enough room to turn your 14" part. Then face, flip, face, done.
 
Since you showed it, is there enough material to turn down that bull nose to fit one of your tapers for future use?
Hey post some pics of your boat when you have time. I would also like to see the boom vang when completed. I assume it has a line or cable now?
 
Here is a picture of my boat with the old boom vang. It was an old spinlock vang that had a ratchet mechanism that was frozen up. I don't have a picture of the new boom vang.
old vang.jpg

IMG_3428.JPG

The new vang is a forespar. It is basically a tube within a tube. There is a plastic sleeve that separates the two tubes. There is also a huge spring that fits inside the inner tube to help keep the tubes lined up and to help support the boom. The inner tube acts as a stop to limit how low the boom can be. The inner tube is not long enough to keep the boom above the solar panels. So I need an extension to raise the boom so that it clears the solar panel. For test fit purposes I removed the spring and put a wooden dowel in.

Since the tube does not need to be turned down for its full length, one end can stay in the chuck. I don't need to flip the tube end for end.

I am down to two options. Both involve holding one end in a chuck. Then supporting the other end in either a steady rest or make an adapter to fit on my live center that will center on the tube. The steady rest option will require me to turn a portion of the tube to size and then move the steady rest so I can turn the remainder of the tube to size. I might be able to get enough length without having to move the steady rest. And no need to make anything. With the live center option I can turn the tube to size without changing anything. I would need to make the adapter.

And remember that this is not a precision fit. It can be rather sloppy. I am sliding the tube inside the existing tube on the vang. I did a test fit and the tube as is slipped in about 4" or so. I am only reducing the OD by .036. Two .009 DOCs is all that is needed. To make sure I end up with the same OD I plan to set my cross slide stop for a .018 total DOC.

I appreciate all of the suggestions. I will make a final decision and let you how it worked out. I will also post a picture of the new vang on the boat when I am done.
 
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