- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 1,063
I love to watch model engines run but if they are doing some work it is even better.
I finished my vertical single I/C engine a couple of months back and when I made the mounting board for it I left it intentionally long so I could add something for it to run.
I decided on a water pump with a pump jack attached to the engine.
This is the type of pump that I am talking about.
And here is one with a pump jack and motor attached.
The water pump is not complicated and has been in use for centuries and maybe longer.
Here is how it works.
These are the main parts I made for the pump.
The base plate with a check valve (1/2" steel ball)
The main cylinder.
The piston is 1" in diameter with a check valve at the bottom and 4 holes drilled in the top side for the water to escape There is also a 1/4' rod that screws into the piston top center.
And that ended up looking like this
The water inlet is through the base and below the bottom check valve.
The diameter of the cylinder above the piston's upper stroke (1" stroke) needs to be larger to allow time for the water run out of the spout between strokes.
On to the pump jack
This is what the jack part looks like installed on the pump.
And here it is attached to the motor base for a trial run.
This photo shows the driven pulley with a gear reducer hidden in the aluminum mount.
The gear reducer started life as a D/C motor driven gear box assembly which I cut open and removed the motor parts except for the main shaft and it's small gear.
The overall gear ratio is 48 to 1 which makes for a nice slow stroke.
This is a video of the first pumping test.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I finished my vertical single I/C engine a couple of months back and when I made the mounting board for it I left it intentionally long so I could add something for it to run.
I decided on a water pump with a pump jack attached to the engine.
This is the type of pump that I am talking about.
And here is one with a pump jack and motor attached.
The water pump is not complicated and has been in use for centuries and maybe longer.
Here is how it works.
These are the main parts I made for the pump.
The base plate with a check valve (1/2" steel ball)
The main cylinder.
The piston is 1" in diameter with a check valve at the bottom and 4 holes drilled in the top side for the water to escape There is also a 1/4' rod that screws into the piston top center.
And that ended up looking like this
The water inlet is through the base and below the bottom check valve.
The diameter of the cylinder above the piston's upper stroke (1" stroke) needs to be larger to allow time for the water run out of the spout between strokes.
On to the pump jack
This is what the jack part looks like installed on the pump.
And here it is attached to the motor base for a trial run.
This photo shows the driven pulley with a gear reducer hidden in the aluminum mount.
The gear reducer started life as a D/C motor driven gear box assembly which I cut open and removed the motor parts except for the main shaft and it's small gear.
The overall gear ratio is 48 to 1 which makes for a nice slow stroke.
This is a video of the first pumping test.
Thanks for looking
Ray