Q: Leveling a 1228

A

Aurelius

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So my 1228 should be here (fingers crossed) the end of next month and I am in the home stretch of getting the basement set up. Though I am no stranger to using tools, this is going to be the first time setting one up, so one question I do have is related to leveling the lathe. I have watched videos and know that I should be using a machinist level, the issue is there seem to be multiple types. I have seen some such as the Starrett 98 with the cast iron base and the 'exposed' tube and also some that are noticeably less expensive, appear to be spec'd for better precision, and are labeled "Master Level" or "Precision Level" that appear to be enclosed in a housing with adjustment screws.

Is one type preferable to the other? Is one easier to use?

I want to get the tool set up as best I can but also don't want to waste money on a tool I will not need very often once everything is set up.

Thanks
 
Good question, I'm following along to see what the pros have to say.
 
Level gets it close, use the "two collar" method to dial it in. I think the import ones are just fine, no reason to go crazy with this tool since it's not the final step anyway.

Hoping to get there soon with my lathe, fifth one I've owned and ready to go after precision now....

John
 
The 98 is not really sensitive enough for checking bed twist, typically you want a precision level at least 0.0005"/10" or better. Lots of inexpensive Chinese knock-offs that are good enough, a good alternate brand is the Polish VIS which often can be had in the $80-120 range in very good condition. On a new lathe check the level a few times maybe weekly, once everything settles then every 3-6 months. The two ring test is helpful but also can be misleading as there are other factors that effect consistency of the diameter cut at different points away from the chuck. I would not get a level longer than 8" for smaller lathes. Also level is relative, you are looking at several points along the bed, they should read the same.
VIS 8” Precision Machine Level (0.0005 in / 10 in) with Case. Made in Poland.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124941034285
 
I have a Starrett 98/6 and a Chinese 8" Master Precision that looks exactly tike the PM branded one.

My plan is to use the 98 to dial it in center bubble, and then use the mater precision to get it perfect. After that, I was going to use the 2 collar approach to eliminate any bed twist.

The master precision levels are incredibly sensitive, and they take a bit for the bubble to move. Once it is close, you may want to wait several minutes after each tweak, or you will overshoot and need to adjust backwards. It is frustrating at times, but I think the best strategy is going to be make a tiny adjustment and walk away for a few minutes. Come back and assess.

Zeroing the master precision took me hours, but I think if I needed to re-do it now, I could do it in 20 minutes. Patience is KEY.

If you are going to buy just one, I would say the master precision is they way to go. You can get it close with a cheap level, and then tweak with the master. Make sure both are calibrated if possible, but especially the mater precision.
 
"My plan is to use the 98 to dial it in center bubble, and then use the mater precision to get it perfect. After that, I was going to use the 2 collar approach to eliminate any bed twist."

Question for the experts...IF I am able to get the bed perfectly level, would the 2 collar method be telling me I have a head alignment problem?
 
Christianstark said:
"My plan is to use the 98 to dial it in center bubble, and then use the mater precision to get it perfect. After that, I was going to use the 2 collar approach to eliminate any bed twist."

Question for the experts...IF I am able to get the bed perfectly level, would the 2 collar method be telling me I have a head alignment problem?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
Christianstark said:
I have a Starrett 98/6 and a Chinese 8" Master Precision that looks exactly tike the PM branded one.

My plan is to use the 98 to dial it in center bubble, and then use the mater precision to get it perfect. After that, I was going to use the 2 collar approach to eliminate any bed twist.

The master precision levels are incredibly sensitive, and they take a bit for the bubble to move. Once it is close, you may want to wait several minutes after each tweak, or you will overshoot and need to adjust backwards. It is frustrating at times, but I think the best strategy is going to be make a tiny adjustment and walk away for a few minutes. Come back and assess.

Zeroing the master precision took me hours, but I think if I needed to re-do it now, I could do it in 20 minutes. Patience is KEY.

If you are going to buy just one, I would say the master precision is they way to go. You can get it close with a cheap level, and then tweak with the master. Make sure both are calibrated if possible, but especially the mater precision.
Click to expand...

How do you calibrate a Master Precision level? I bought one a while back I don't believe there were instructions on calibrating it. Since I don't have a lathe yet, I haven't really looked at it much.

Tim
 
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