Q: Leveling a 1228

It should have come with a small wrench for doing this. Mine looks similar to a micrometer wrench.

It is the same process as calibrating a normal level, but with finer adjustments. My MPL has 2 caps on the ends. One of them has an adjustment mechanism behind it. It took me a while to figure out how to do it in a repeatable fashion, as there are 2 nuts, one on either side of the adjusting lever, so adjustments are done via loosening one and tightening the other for best results that last.
 
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There is an old YouTube that shows adjusting the nuts to level, but you should not be leveling it using the internal nuts. They should be used for replacing the vials, there is a small set screw on the top which is used for fine adjustments. . Also with all the handling of the level it can cause thermal changes that can change the bubble accuracy. The bubble needs to be accurate (level) in both the X and Z plane, it looks like from your photo that the X plane is not parallel to the base. It seems like all the inexpensive Chinese precision levels are the same, a bit rough, but should be OK if you use the same orientation and position across the bed. One reason why I recommended the VIS which seem to be built a bit better and in the same price range if you can find a lightly used one. I use an SPI which was a rebranded EDA that I bought new, it was $150 because it had a broken box. I use 123 blocks on the lathe bed, others use the cross slide for leveling.
 
mksj said:
There is an old YouTube that shows adjusting the nuts to level, but you should not be leveling it using the internal nuts. They should be used for replacing the vials, there is a small set screw on the top which is used for fine adjustments. . Also with all the handling of the level it can cause thermal changes that can change the bubble accuracy. The bubble needs to be accurate (level) in both the X and Z plane, it looks like from your photo that the X plane is not parallel to the base. It seems like all the inexpensive Chinese precision levels are the same, a bit rough, but should be OK if you use the same orientation and position across the bed. One reason why I recommended the VIS which seem to be built a bit better and in the same price range if you can find a lightly used one. I use an SPI which was a rebranded EDA that I bought new, it was $150 because it had a broken box. I use 123 blocks on the lathe bed, others use the cross slide for leveling.
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OK Thats crazy. Another video I watched showed me I was supposed to use the nuts. What are the nuts for and the wrench for if not to calibrate? No wonder it took me well over an hour...
 
Mine is an Accusize like the one in video. It never came with a wrench.
 
Ok mine is a knockoff, and looks like I do need to use the wrench. Using the screw is too abrupt, and if I loosen the screws, they won’t hold the setting well.
 
In all the adjustable precision levels I have seen the small set screw on the top was used for calibration, it makes no sense to be handling and trying to adjust the nuts with a wrench from the side. Typically it would only be for vial replacement and gross adjustment. Also the thread is extremely course, would almost make it impossible to try to use it to make adjustments. I might sound like a broken record, but often paying a small amount more for better equipment (used or new) pays in the long run as to not needing to 2nd guess or replace/return the item because of functional issues. I had my share of faulty machine items early on, and found buying once and crying once in the long run was more economical and productive. The VIS levels are very good at a reasonable price point if in good condition. I also have loaned my levels to local machinist to setup their machines and saved them a few $$, so if someone is close to you with one maybe see if you can borrow it.
 
I just wanted to take a moment tho thank all of you guys for all the info.
A shiny new master precision level is on it's way (ironically bought the day I sound out my lathe has been held up about a month).
I went with one of the cheaper chinese ones since I don't see using it a whole lot once I get things set up and don't spend the extra money on somthing that is likely to spend most of it's life in a drawer.
 
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