Q Regarding Homemade Spot Welder

SE18

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I did one of those homemade jobs you see all over youtube, where you take apart a microwave, ensuring the capacitor is discharged, take apart the windings etc etc.

So it works, but the gauge 2 copper I'm using for tips turn black (oxide?) pretty quickly and it's not as powerful as some commercial ones I've seen on youtube.

I'm wondering if anyone else has built one that is powerful and gets around the oxide issue. Maybe I should be using a different type of copper? Maybe add another microwave transformer to double up on the power?
 
I've never heard of using a microwave oven supply for a spot welder.... Plasma cutter, yes.

How are you clamping the work between tips?

Spot welding takes advantage of the fact that steel has a higher resistance than copper and will heat to near melting point before the copper melts. There is no (or shouldn't be) arc. Therefore no chance for oxides to build up.

Also the work must be clean. Any contamination will transfer to your electrodes.
 
My commercial spot welder uses 5/8" electrodes. 2 gauge is most likely too small. You have about 6 times the resistance of my 5/8" electrodes. You are getting the black oxide because the electrodes are heating due to resistance in the copper and heat transfer from the spot weld. This reaction begins about 200 C and occurs fairly rapidly when the copper temperature is above 600 C.

Increasing the electrode diameter will give you more welding current as well although you may be limited by your transformer winding and leads.

Bob
 
I use MIG welder tips in my MOT spot welder.
 
Inflight scooped me, but I use MIG tips too.
Never seen the tips turn black.

I started with one microwave oven transformer, but then added another in parallel to double the current.
I see great results with stainless sheet and steel wire.
Results with steel sheet have been mixed.
I need to spend more time getting consistent pressure.

so many interesting projects, so few lifetimes.........

-brino
 
Just curious. What is the expected current from your home brews? My Miller is rated at 4,500 amps for 12" tongs. OCV is 1.6 volts.

Bob
 
"Increasing the electrode diameter will give you more welding current as well although you may be limited by your transformer winding and leads."

Thanks, I may try that! I may also add another transformer in parallel. I'm welding steel sheet. Probably need to clean it better as well.

Appreciate your ideas.
 
BTW, there are a lot of fun, relatively simple projects to do for beginners like the spot welder. Also, i built a carbon arc torch that works like a charm, which I connect to the leads of my Marquette stick welder. And I built a resistance soldering setup, which simply connects the same carbon arc torch to the leads of a 12V car battery charger.
 
"Increasing the electrode diameter will give you more welding current as well although you may be limited by your transformer winding and leads."

Thanks, I may try that! I may also add another transformer in parallel. I'm welding steel sheet. Probably need to clean it better as well.

Appreciate your ideas.
I don't know what specific design you used to make yours but in looking at some of the designs on line, it appears that there is a wide range of secondary coils used. My Miller is a 1.5 kva unit and the secondary is a U shaped piece of copper strap with the tongs connected to the legs of the U. The secret with spot welding is to build up heat very quickly and quit. My time settings for welding are typically between 1 and 5 seconds.

The Miller has a 1.6 volt secondary, implying a 75:1 turns ratio. It also puts out over 4,500 amps with 12" tongs. The resistance of the secondary is about .1 milliohms so closed circuit voltage will be somewhere around .5 volts. This would imply a power output of around 2.5 kw. The duty cycle of the welder is 50% so it kind of fits.
when designing a welder, you want just enough voltage to overcome the secondary IR drop. Fewer turns means less resistance and more current. It makes sense to run a honkin'
big secondary, single turn, out to big tongs and concentrating the output power in the work instead of losing it as heat in your windings.

I see that copper pipe is used for the tongs on some of the home brews. The resistance is governed by the cross sectional area of your conductor. 5/8" copper bar has a weight of 1.19 lb./ft. Schedule K hard drawn copper water pipe has a weight of .27 lbs/ ft. This means that the resistance will be about four times as much as for the 5/8" solid bar. If I were building a spot welder, I would use the largest size tubing practical and probably fill the interior with a length of large gauge copper wire to decrease resistance further. Better yet, I would order some copper bar from McMaster. My tongs are bent at a right angle and the ends threaded to take the welding tip. If you are running a copper bolt through the pipe to form the welding electrodes, you want to make sure that you have solid low resistance connections. The objective is to decrease the circuit resistance to a minimum. The currents that you are dealing with are an order of magnitude greater than arc welding currents and the voltages an order of magnitude lower.

Good luck wit sorting it out.

Bob
 
If I remember correctly from when I was building a welder with MOTs I put around 22 turns to get around 20 amps from a 110 line. Spot welder a use less turns. I think between 1-4 so If I remember correctly it should be around 100 amps with 1 turn.
 
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