Question about horizontal drive and motor oil holes

josef

josef

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Messages
41
Now that I've decided to change my belt to a serpentine and ordered the felts kit for my SouthBend 9A, I thought I'd look into something that has bothered me about the set-up. In the picture of the motor you can see the oil holes that are mounted on the side in such a way that it makes it difficult or impossible to oil them regularly.
I have only seen one SB 9A which is the one I bought used and have not changed the set-up. So I'm hoping that some of you can enlighten me. The other pics show the front and back side of the horizontal drive as well as one on the side showing some holes whose purpose I wonder about. The motor's nameplate is mostly rubbed away but I think it says 1725RPM. Was this standard?
Thanks,
 

Attachments

  • back-view.jpg
    back-view.jpg
    287 KB · Views: 23
  • extra-holes.jpg
    extra-holes.jpg
    245.6 KB · Views: 23
  • front-view.jpg
    front-view.jpg
    335.1 KB · Views: 21
  • oil-on-side.jpg
    oil-on-side.jpg
    311 KB · Views: 21
Interesting motor- looks like it has "blowholes" near the output shaft. It may be a replacement motor- many old lathes have had at least one replacement.
You might be able to remove the case bolts and rotate the end bell of the motor 90 degrees then refasten. That way, at least the output bearing
lube cup would be pointing skyward and would hold oil better.
I did this on one of my motors. I couldn't rotate the rear end- the wiring prevented it- you might be able to
 
Last edited:
On the HMD, if the holes on the end where the shaft exits, that is where the felt goes, one on each end.
On the motor, get some 90 deg, oilers from Mm-C..

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
I thought about fabricating a bracket to just mount the motor upright. It might mean changing the length of the V belt, but it needs replacing anyway. The other thing is that the starting switch can be heard sometimes clicking a short time after switching the motor off. So maybe it's time to think about a new motor. What HP do most 9's run on? The nameplate on this motor is almost completely unreadable.
 
josef said:
I thought about fabricating a bracket to just mount the motor upright. It might mean changing the length of the V belt, but it needs replacing anyway. The other thing is that the starting switch can be heard sometimes clicking a short time after switching the motor off. So maybe it's time to think about a new motor. What HP do most 9's run on? The nameplate on this motor is almost completely unreadable.
Click to expand...
I think you would be hard put to use/need more than 1/2 HP on a SB9.
 
A machine that size would be a little "overloaded" with a 3/4 HP motor. Think of using a howitzer as a fly swatter. . . A half, or even a third (1/2 - 1/3) HP motor would be sufficient for any but a full time production machine. An 1800 RPM class, 1750 nominal, 4 pole motor would be the norm for a small machine such as that. It would be possible to go slower, 6 or 8 pole. But I will strongly advise against a 2 pole, 3600 RPM motor. STRONGLY AGAINST. . .

My personal machine is an Atlas/Craftsman 12X36 (101.27440). It has a 1/3 HP 1800 RPM Baldor "farm duty" motor that I installed. Admittedly, I am partial to this type motor and I generally do small, and often non-ferrous, work. Even with the small motor, I have never dragged the machine down or slipped a belt. With all the oil leaks, the belts are not in primo condition either. The big advantage to "farm duty" motors is that they are (TEFC) Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled, a NEMA designation. Such a motor keeps chips, swarf, bugs, spiders, ants, and the like out of the motor. And the single phase switch. . .

The motor pictured looks to be a retrofit. For those motors, the norm was to mount the baseplate horizontal. That would place the oil holes on top. Loosening the end bells and rotating them 90 degrees would place the oilers in the proper orientation. But I would advise against it, for several reasons. You would be much better served to rotate the entire motor. That may involve a longer belt, always a problem. But much easier to deal with than a failure of the internal switch. Realigning the bearings is just another reason not to tamper with the end bells. There are many reasons to not open a single phase, or any, motor unless necessary.

The internal switch opens the start winding as the motor comes up to speed. If you listen closely you can hear the switch open on startup. The switch will normally close around 25-50% speed when the motor is powered off. This is the "click" you are hearing and is considered normal. It's when you don't hear it that you have troubles. . .

As for some of the other "holes", studying the machine and where and/or how the holes are oriented should give some indication of whether they are oil holes or "assembly assists". They could be either. . .

.
 
Last edited:
I agree with John & Bill, 3/4 horsepower would be plenty for that size lathe- any bigger and it might take off into the sky
Also, 3/4 HP and below can run comfortably on 120 volts; 1 HP and above should run on 220/240V power
-M
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top