- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 1,851
3 parts to this.
First, I read a post in the forum about the screw in the quill of a 932 which acts as the key for the R8 tools. It solved a problem I had with my 950V. I could not relocate the post so thank you if you happen upon this post. My problem was an issue with my tools not fitting properly and the post had a photo of the screw noting that the individual did not have the screw tight enough, just knowing about the screw and where it was helped me, perfect.
Second, when I extracted the screw the tip which acted as the key was partially sheared and bent over, neither loosening nor tightening would fix the issue. I identified the screw as a M5x0.8x10mm lg. and acquired one from the local hardware store, a 45H hardness and turned the end of it down to fit this works but created an additional problem. The real solution turned out to be a M5x0.8x12mm with and extending tip just for this type application, I found these at Mac Master Carr.
Third, when using the home made screw I discovered that a number of my tools with integrated R8 connections have key ways which have been cut with wood-ruff key cutters which means they end in a gentle radius at the tapper end and are not cut as close to the tapper as are those cut with a mill, Couple this with the fact that the Screw/key is a bit further down toward the spindle opening and running the key out as far as it really should go prevents these tools from seating in the end of the spindle.
I am really interested in knowing if anyone else has discovered this? If so what are your thoughts? I am tempted to setup a fixture and mill those tools with the issues farther toward the tool end of the R8 so I can better adjust the key, any thoughts?
First, I read a post in the forum about the screw in the quill of a 932 which acts as the key for the R8 tools. It solved a problem I had with my 950V. I could not relocate the post so thank you if you happen upon this post. My problem was an issue with my tools not fitting properly and the post had a photo of the screw noting that the individual did not have the screw tight enough, just knowing about the screw and where it was helped me, perfect.
Second, when I extracted the screw the tip which acted as the key was partially sheared and bent over, neither loosening nor tightening would fix the issue. I identified the screw as a M5x0.8x10mm lg. and acquired one from the local hardware store, a 45H hardness and turned the end of it down to fit this works but created an additional problem. The real solution turned out to be a M5x0.8x12mm with and extending tip just for this type application, I found these at Mac Master Carr.
Third, when using the home made screw I discovered that a number of my tools with integrated R8 connections have key ways which have been cut with wood-ruff key cutters which means they end in a gentle radius at the tapper end and are not cut as close to the tapper as are those cut with a mill, Couple this with the fact that the Screw/key is a bit further down toward the spindle opening and running the key out as far as it really should go prevents these tools from seating in the end of the spindle.
I am really interested in knowing if anyone else has discovered this? If so what are your thoughts? I am tempted to setup a fixture and mill those tools with the issues farther toward the tool end of the R8 so I can better adjust the key, any thoughts?
