Re-Barreling

[curioushooter]

I am trying to re-barrel a M1912 Norwegian Krag rifle that has already been sporterized. The barrel is almost unbelievably corroded. I am experiencing tremendous difficulty removing the barrel. The threads on Norwegian Krags are left-handed, so I am turning to the right. Norwegian Krags do not stop on the shoulder of the barrel shank like most rifles, threads are exposed and the stop is provided by the inside of the receiver. I suspect it is heavily corroded. I soaked the action in 50/50mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone (according to Machinists Workshop magazine this is the best un-sticking concoction tested vs. Kroil, PB Penetrating Catalyst, etc.) for days. I clamp the receiver ring in my barrel vise with generous application of rosin. Yard long 1/2 inch cold-rolled steel rod is now bent using it to turn off the cross-drilled barrel. The the action started slipping...

The action is rather fragile with many thin steel ribs and sections and the magazine bod. I had the idea of casting the entire receiver into a block of Cerrosafe (this is about $300 worth of Cerrosafe) and putting that into a vise. Not cheap, but an option.

At what point should I consider milling out the barrel? Any tips along those lines? Also, I am unsure of the features of the receiver and don't want to cause any damage. I do know the minor diameter of the barrel is 1.001 inches.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[OakRidgeGuy]

You think that you might have to back cut the barrel at the face of the action in order to get it to release?

 

[curioushooter]

Threads are sticking out as it is. There is no shoulder to cut. Thanks.

You think that you might have to back cut the barrel at the face of the action in order to get it to release?

 

[ScrapMetal]

Two things I would try before I started cutting into anything would be some Kano Kroil (penetrant) and/or some heat. Gentle with the heat though, maybe around 250 F - 300 F tops. You could also try submersing it in a rust remover like Evapo-rust but you'd have to re-blue everything when done.

Hope that helps,

-Ron

 

[Bobby Bailey]

Buy or make a proper fitting action wrench. The action can be twisted or crushed pretty easy.
Bobby

 

[swatson144]

I've done a lot of mausers and some others. I'd be surprised if a 1/2 inch rod would budge it. The rod on my action wrench is 1 1/4 and gets loaded and beat on. Usually I end up putting the barrel in the hydraulic press to hold it as my 6" vice isn't up to it.

Best suggestion is to buy or make a substantial action wrench like Bobby says.

Steve

 

[ranch23]

Curious, has that barrel been soldered in? If it is unbelievably corroded it might be. Which would mean further problems. I think you have picked a bad candidate for a project. Previously sporterized guns are notorious for ... mistakes.

 

[dirtyjim]

occasionally you just get one that will not budge.
i have an argentine 1909 that i broke one action wrench and bent another trying to get the barrel off.
i had to resort to cutting the barrel off about 1/16" infront of the receiver and machining the barrel stub out of the action.
once i got down to around .020" off the threads it turned right out.

never had one give me anywhere near this much trouble.
ussualy i just clamp the barrel in my barrel vise, place my action wrench on the receiver with a 50 pound weight hanging off the end of it and give the head of the action wrench a good whack with a hammer and the shock breaks it loose.

 

[ranch23]

curious, hows it going?

 

[dirtyjim]

here is the setup i used on one very stubborn barrel.
i forgot i had the pics on my phone
mandrel in the receiver with a steadyrest on the very end of the action
the threads just peel out after the barrel stub is bored out