Rebushing the 4x6 pivot points ?

[frugalguido]

Has anyone ever done this? My old much used 4x6 is totally worn out the pivot points. I'm thinking about boring them out and installing some oilite bushings, maybe one one side adding eccentric on one side to make it adjustable for the out of squareness to the vise table. Plus add some gits oilers that these saws need. Need to figure out a method on how to bore the pivot points out, looking for ideas?

 

[rabler]

What is a 4x6 ? I'm assuming it's not a lumber dimension

 

[frugalguido]

Sorry should have been clearer, yes, 4x6 bandsaw.

 

[francist]

Yes I have, to a point.

I was pretty limited with equipment at that time though so all I did was wrap a steel rod with emery and run it back and forth through the pivot holes. I tried to concentrate my pressure on the sides where I felt I needed to move the pivot in order to achieve square. Once I had gotten to a point where I could get some shim material in (or my arm was too tired, can't remember which came first) I slid some bronze in the opposite side to basically kick the pivot point over a bit. It seemed to help and I've been using it like that ever since (15 years easy). I also noticed at the same time that the pivot wasn't locked in any way so could rotate too if it wanted. I wanted to have at least one thing to stay positioned so I put a threaded hole and set screw in to hold the pivot solid.

No question that putting proper bushings in would be a better solution, but at the time I had no where near the experience or gear to try that.

-frank

 

[frugalguido]

I was thinking about setting the lower frame up in of my one Deckel mills and using the horizontal spindle to bore the two holes. The problem is I don't think can reach the second hole with the boring head on the one setup, maybe a long boring bar, but that is not going to be rigid at all.

 

[francist]

Would the Deckel have enough Z travel to line bore the pivot? I'm kind of thinking not, but that'd be a way to do it. Or, if you want to build a custom arbor, build one with locations for two cutters about 5" apart. Set the cutters to same height and you should be able to get both pivots in one setup. Wouldn't need to have them cut simultaneously, just spaced close enough together so that you'd stay within the table travel limits.

 

[frugalguido]

I have about 8" on the Y horizontal axis plus the quill travel (the Deckel FP-2NC also has a quill on the horizontal spindle) I could also use the vertical spindle, plenty of Z travel for sure, but I think the setup might harder using angle plate and such. Using the horizontal spindle, I could just bolt the casing upside down on some 4X6 blocks and bore. I really wish I had the optional overarm then I could setup a line bore thing and it would be really rigid. I like your idea of two cutters on one shaft.

 

[MyLilMule]

Mine cuts every so slightly at an angle. Not enough that it's junk, but enough that I would like to bore out the pivot and push bushings in there. Maybe once the K&T is ready to go.

 

[francist]

Oh wow, I didn't think there would be that much table travel. I was imagining something smaller. Just had a thought about the arbor -- instead of having to make a "real" one with a taper and everything on the end you might get away with making one that held two cutters but that you could chuck into a large end mill holder or collet at the driving end. The front end would be the running bushing which is not as big a deal. Might save some time.

Oops, just realized you said you didn't have the overarm. Dang!

 

[C-Bag]

As a owner of a 40yrld 4x6 I’m very familiar with their foibles. And modded the heck out it as needed but i don’t remember checking the pivot. But this has me contemplating what would I do if I wanted to make the pivot adjustable? Besides Frank’s excellent idea of line boring it I think instead of an eccentric I would slot pivot mount on blade side elongated horizontal with set screws fore and aft to square the blade to the work. And the mount on the opposite side elongated vertically with set screws top and bottom to adjust tilt to the work. Of course that just spitball in’ without actually standing in front of the saw, just a thought.