Rebushing the 4x6 pivot points ?

[Asm109]

No horizontal adjustment needed. You square the vise to the blade in that axis, not the other way round.

 

[C-Bag]

Agree to disagree. I have a zero stop on the vise already. Square to that and adjustment in all axis is good. But to my way of thinking the radial adjust on one end will cause more probs than solve.

 

[homebrewed]

One way around your problem may be to change which set of bearing holes the pivot action occurs on. The original design has the pivot shaft attached to the outside pivot bearings so no wear occurs there. Fixing the pivot shaft to the (worn) inside pivot bearings using set screws and removing the roll pin (part # 136 on my bandsaw) then frees the pivot to rotate in the (unworn) outer pivot bearings. Older bandsaws may use a set screw rather than a roll pin.

BTW it also is possible to improve the saw's vertical alignment by filing on the portion of pivot shaft that's inside the worn bearings. All this is spelled out in great detail on the 4x6 bandsaw group hosted on groups.io. The document is in the files section: "Fixing vertical squareness or Worn pivot bearings on a 4x6 Bandsaw V2.pdf". The easiest way to find it is to sort the files by their "updated" date, it will be one of the most recent.

If you go this route I'd suggest buying or making a replacement pivot shaft. The old one will be worn just like the pivot bearings are.

 

[frugalguido]

One way around your problem may be to change which set of bearing holes the pivot action occurs on. The original design has the pivot shaft attached to the outside pivot bearings so no wear occurs there. Fixing the pivot shaft to the (worn) inside pivot bearings using set screws and removing the roll pin (part # 136 on my bandsaw) then frees the pivot to rotate in the (unworn) outer pivot bearings. Older bandsaws may use a set screw rather than a roll pin.

BTW it also is possible to improve the saw's vertical alignment by filing on the portion of pivot shaft that's inside the worn bearings. All this is spelled out in great detail on the 4x6 bandsaw group hosted on groups.io. The document is in the files section: "Fixing vertical squareness or Worn pivot bearings on a 4x6 Bandsaw V2.pdf". The easiest way to find it is to sort the files by their "updated" date, it will be one of the most recent.

If you go this route I'd suggest buying or making a replacement pivot shaft. The old one will be worn just like the pivot bearings are.

I did see this before, but I am not totally sold on that method. First doesn't fix the big problem "no bearings and no lube" . Second goes on the assumption that there is tight holes in the upper saw frame on mine there is slop on the right end side of said frame and the holes on the base casting are egg shaped from the spring pulling on it. Third, what happens as the new wear happens, back at it again. Maybe I don't understand the great detail of the document.

I have a new pivot shaft, but the oilite bearing I have are inch size, so I was think of getting a inch sized shaft, or I guess try and find some metric oilite bearings.

 

[C-Bag]

I did see this before, but I am not totally sold on that method. First doesn't fix the big problem "no bearings and no lube" . Second goes on the assumption that there is tight holes in the upper saw frame on mine there is slop on the right end side of said frame and the holes on the base casting are egg shaped from the spring pulling on it. Third, what happens as the new wear happens, back at it again. Maybe I don't understand the great detail of the document.

I have a new pivot shaft, but the oilite bearing I have are inch size, so I was think of getting a inch sized shaft, or I guess try and find some metric oilite bearings.

Wouldn’t needle bearings be better? I’m always surprised what kind of bearing I can find on eBay. I did a mod on the shear mechanism on my 3n1 and found the perfect needle bearings. Works so much easier now, they should come like that.

 

[frugalguido]

Wouldn’t needle bearings be better? I’m always surprised what kind of bearing I can find on eBay. I did a mod on the shear mechanism on my 3n1 and found the perfect needle bearings. Works so much easier now, they should come like that.

Maybe, bottom line there needs to be bearings on the pivot points and they should be lubeable.
A funny saying I hear in the Deckel world, "Germans would put needle bearings in a toaster if you let them"

 

[C-Bag]

Maybe, bottom line there needs to be bearings on the pivot points and they should be lubeable.
A funny saying I hear in the Deckel world, "Germans would put needle bearings in a toaster if you let them"

Until this thread I’d not thought too deep about it but I happened to have stuff out of the way and grabbed end of my saw and wiggled it was hard to tell if there was any slop. I guess the only way to know for sure is take tension off spring. Is that how you found yours was worn? I never expected great accuracy out of mine because even the hi end band saws go schwangle when the blade gets old so precision doesn’t last. If I wanted precision I’d get a cold saw.

 

[frugalguido]

Until this thread I’d not thought too deep about it but I happened to have stuff out of the way and grabbed end of my saw and wiggled it was hard to tell if there was any slop. I guess the only way to know for sure is take tension off spring. Is that how you found yours was worn? I never expected great accuracy out of mine because even the hi end band saws go schwangle when the blade gets old so precision doesn’t last. If I wanted precision I’d get a cold saw.

I had the spring off to change the motor and noticed the slop on the right side of the upper frame where the non pivot point is like was was bored out to big for the shaft. Then with the frame in the lower position , I noticed a lot of play on the spring side pivot. The saw has been used a lot over the years (20+), so I think it's a combo of wear and poor manufacturing from the git go. The vertical squareness has been getting worst, so I need to do something, ether get a new saw or fix this one.