Recently Acquired A Clausing 4800 Series Lathe

dmbaile2

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I recently acquired this Clausing 4804, and I believe the vintage is 1955-ish, Serial Number: 17321.


Im only in it for $250. I was told that the lathe is functional but has a couple of issues, the previous owner told me that the cross slide threads were worn, and that the clutch was going out, he also told me that it could use new chuck jaws.


am trying to figure out if this lathe is worth putting some money into. It's for home shop use.


I'll address the issues one by one, some of them are hard to describe so I made a video that I will link. I will outline specific times of the video next to the problem descriptions below.


First issue: Cross Slide threads, as I stated before the previous owner spoke about replacing the cross slide threads. There seems to be some play in the crank. If I tighten the collar (with the indication marks), the slide firms up with much less play. Are the threads bad or does the collar just need adjusted? - For video fast forward to 1:20 min


Grinding Gear, if you fast forward to 7:10 I start the lathe and run it through the different speed settings. I run the motor through its RPM range, and I happen to have the threading setting activated and positioned on the 5th gear from the left side of the selection box. During the test, I pushed the sliding gear handle on the back of the lathe to the “in” position and got a terrible grinding sound (Video: 9:30). After inspecting all gears I found the problem (Video 10:02).

There is a gear that engages with the threaded rod (it is not a gear you can select with the handle). It is a large diameter gear located in the center of the gear tree (circled in red below). It is directly to the right of the gear I had randomly selected. When the fifth gear is selected (blue arrow), the bracket of the selector (circled in red) collides with this gear circled in red (Part Q-482, manual lists it as a tumbler shaft). I think the gear was grinding the entire time I was testing it, I think I didn’t notice it because the hi-torque and low speed of the other settings made it hard to realize something was grinding. The sliding gear on the rear of the lathe does not change anything in threading gear box from what I can tell, so it must have been grinding the hole time. Why on earth is this happening? I just don’t get it.

Untitled_zpsifjopgox.jpg

All in all, I am trying to figure out if this lathe is worth the investment in time and tooling. Beyond that, I am trying to figure out if it needs any replacement parts (like the cross-slide threads maybe?), threading gear? ect.

The chuck had about 6 thou run-out when I clamp down a drill bit in the chuck. I tested the ways by locking down the saddle until I got a little resistance and then ran the saddle front to back. It does give me more resistance in the middle and rear of the ways but it can make it all the way without binding hard. I know this means the ways are worn, but how worn? Does this need to be addressed?

Any help appreciated!
 
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I tried to add the video and a picture to help people understand this post but the website will not let me. Could I possibly get some help with that?

Never mind, I figured it out ;)
 
Yes you got a good deal!
Yes you have a good lathe keep it!
The backlash in the cross slide and compound is common and adjustable. The manual should show you how. the belt is slipping and if you can't adjust it and have to replace it it will be easier to go with a link belt, that way you don't have to take the head stock apart. As far the gear box it will be easier to fix than it looks so don't let it intimidate you;) .
Tomh
 
The price is darn good . The machine looks great . Put some time in it you will have a great machine.
 
That lathe looks like what was also called a "Heavy duty Atlas". A friend of mine had one many years ago. It was a good,stout lathe,much superior to an ordinary Atlas. However,in spite of the vast improvements to this lathe,they used the same little spindle as the 12" Atlas,with the SMALL spindle hole through it at about 3/4".

Don't try engaging the cross and long. feeds at once,or you will wring off the taper pin on the left end of the lead screw. On many lathes,such as my Hardinge HLVH,you can engage both feeds at once. On my Hardinge,the lathe will produce a very useful 60º point,which is great for turning between centers.
 
I used a lathe that had a ton of backlash in it, as long as you keep the dial going the same way it can be dealt with. I'm not sure of the set up on this type of lathe but on the Southbends I used to use there was a bronze nut that the cross screw traveled through, almost always a new nut solved the back lash issues.
 
The lathe looks good, not sure of the quick change gear problem, hopefully it can be resolved without to much difficulty.
Have a god day!
Ray
 
Hi Derek,
There are two books that you may find interesting, The first is similar to How to Run a Lathe by South Bend but is published by Atlas. The other is Machine Shop Operations and Setups which is a machine shop training manual. They are both available on Amazon I think.
I noticed in the video you were running the lathe in reverse, I have to watch mine when I do this as it will unthread the chuck.
 
Hi Derek,
I think the parts diagram you show isn't for the lathe you have - there are more gears in the gearbox you have...
Does the gear that grinds engage with anything else? If not, maybe there should be a spacer in place of it?

Check what engages what in each of the 9 positions (you have 9 positions and 10 gears on that shaft, which confuses me...) and the book you're referring to shows an 8-position gearbox. Hmm...
 
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