Recently acquired Atlas 10100 lathe

[fmradio516]

Hey there, first post here! I kind of just inherited a NOS Atlas 10100 lathe and Id like to get it in working order.

I know I need a motor for it(i believe 1/3 HP is needed), but am wondering what else is missing.

-Will any old 1/3HP motor work? I have the belt already new in packaging.
-I know im missing some other parts for it, but can anyone help me figure out what else is needed to get this going?

Thanks all!!

 

[wa5cab]

The only thing that should have come with it that I don't see in your photos is a wrench to fit the square head bolt in the tool post and the two in the compound swivel. It has a 4-jaw chuck. You will need a Jacobs 1/2 inch capacity drill chuck and 1MT arbor. And will soon want a 3-jaw chuck as although the-4 jaw will do anything that the 3-jaw will do except hold hex stock, you will soon enough grow tired of the additional time that it takes to set up the 4-jaw.

The 1/3 HP motor should have a 5/8" diameter output shaft as that is the bore of the supplied pulley. It should have a 4-bolt (with slotted holes) mounting foot on the side (you do not want a 56C frame). And should take a 1/4" square key. Which taken all together makes the motor a 56-Frame.

You will find two manuals on the 10100 in Downloads (requires Donor status to access). The first covers S/N up to 007327 and the second covers 007328 on. You will also need a copy of the Manual Of Lathe Operation and Machinists Tables. You can get this from Clausing or if you know to get one later than 1972, off of eBay. The 6" threading section was never actually re-done for the MK 2 but most of the rest of it will be applicable. The 10100 manual covers how to set up the feed and threading gear train on the 10100.

I am pretty certain from your first photo that your serial number is less than 007327 but just to be on the safe side, use a small magnet to confirm that the headstock and legs are cast iron.

 

[pontiac428]

Welcome to the forum, FM!

You almost have the minimum to start. You have a lantern style tool post that uses tool holders to hold the bit (tool holders not pictured). You could make good use of a size 0XA quick change tool post and a starter set of tool holders for it. They are available reasonably priced in a kit or by a'la carte.

The motor will need to turn at the right RPM. I think this one is 1320 RPM, but please verify that against @wa5cab's encyclopedic knowledge or a source you can trust, since my memory is more full of holes than a drill press table from a high school shop class.

 

[wa5cab]

Rated RPM should be around 1725 to 1750 from 120 or 240 VAC @ 60 CPS.

What's the story on why whomever bought the lathe never set it up?

 

[fmradio516]

Rated RPM should be around 1725 to 1750 from 120 or 240 VAC @ 60 CPS.

What's the story on why whomever bought the lathe never set it up?

Thanks for the info! It was my wifes grandfathers lathe. He was an engineer and left behind a bunch of really cool old stuff(mostly tools!). Im not sure why he never set it up.. From what I hear, he had a lot of hobbies/projects.

Would this Jacobs be what I need? Edit: Seems I cant post a link here because im too new but if you search ebay for "Jacobs Chuck 84B 0-1/2 Inch Capacity (Inv.34238)" That is the one I found.

Its going to take me a while to figure out how to find that specific motor, but I guess I should clean it up a bit in the meantime. Does anyone have a writeup on what to use and where?

Thanks again all!

 

[fmradio516]

The only thing that should have come with it that I don't see in your photos is a wrench to fit the square head bolt in the tool post and the two in the compound swivel. It has a 4-jaw chuck. You will need a Jacobs 1/2 inch capacity drill chuck and 1MT arbor. And will soon want a 3-jaw chuck as although the-4 jaw will do anything that the 3-jaw will do except hold hex stock, you will soon enough grow tired of the additional time that it takes to set up the 4-jaw.

The 1/3 HP motor should have a 5/8" diameter output shaft as that is the bore of the supplied pulley. It should have a 4-bolt (with slotted holes) mounting foot on the side (you do not want a 56C frame). And should take a 1/4" square key. Which taken all together makes the motor a 56-Frame.

You will find two manuals on the 10100 in Downloads (requires Donor status to access). The first covers S/N up to 007327 and the second covers 007328 on. You will also need a copy of the Manual Of Lathe Operation and Machinists Tables. You can get this from Clausing or if you know to get one later than 1972, off of eBay. The 6" threading section was never actually re-done for the MK 2 but most of the rest of it will be applicable. The 10100 manual covers how to set up the feed and threading gear train on the 10100.

I am pretty certain from your first photo that your serial number is less than 007327 but just to be on the safe side, use a small magnet to confirm that the headstock and legs are cast iron.

I checked and the headstock is cast iron. I found a couple extras, one is the chuck tool and the other is packaged with the belt. Are those the wrenches you said I needed? Pictures attached. Thanks!

 

[wa5cab]

Yes. Those look like the two tools. The wrench in the belt bag looks like it would fit the head of the screw in the tool post and the two screws that lock the compound at any angle.

On the motor being hard to find, 1/3 HP isn't as common as 1/2 HP. But I would not go over 1/2.

 

[matthewsx]

Hi and welcome,

I had one of these lathes and they are quite good for their size.

The motor shouldn’t be too hard to find but since you have to buy one anyway consider going with a three phase and VFD, or a DC variable speed unit.

If you were closer I would give you a motor but shipping would make it more than you can find something local for. Sometimes you can get a free machine and just use the motor and scrap the rest.

BTW, what’s that strange white thing in the background

John

 

[fmradio516]

Hi and welcome,

I had one of these lathes and they are quite good for their size.

The motor shouldn’t be too hard to find but since you have to buy one anyway consider going with a three phase and VFD, or a DC variable speed unit.

If you were closer I would give you a motor but shipping would make it more than you can find something local for. Sometimes you can get a free machine and just use the motor and scrap the rest.

BTW, what’s that strange white thing in the background

John

Thanks! and yeah there is some strange, ancient alien technology in this house...

 

[fmradio516]

Any guesses on how to tell just from pictures if the diameter of the output shaft is the 5/8" I need? I have been checking craigslist and most ads are pretty good about listing the HP and RPM... and I can see if the motor has slotted mounting feet, but the last piece of the puzzle(shaft) is what im not sure about.