Remote compressor run/stop switch

[Winegrower]

Lots of ways to do this, all based on interrupting the pressure switch circuit. I like it.

I chose to control with low voltage, just for general safety principles...but we all have 120 VAC all over the place anyway.

 

[chipping]

Another important consideration is the unloader valve. When the pressure switch reaches its maximum pressure, it triggers a mechanical switch that unloads the compressor pressure. I don't think your circuit does this. The unloader valve can be controlled electrically in some pressure switches, but it is often an added feature, not common in stock pressure switches for compressors.

Without unloading the compressor pressure, it could be difficult for it to restart.

 

[Winegrower]

Chipping: That is a good point, for some systems. In my case, I use a purely mechanical unloader valve. When it sees zero flow (or some floor amount) it automatically unloads the compressor. It’s the “Load Genie”, works flawlessly, and however and whenever the compressor is shut off, flow goes to zero and it unloads in a second or two.

 

[slow-poke]

Very clever approach, thanks for posting.

 

[chipping]

Ah - I didn't know about those. Ingenious device.

 

[RandyWilson]

I went a different route. I have a small two stage compressor in the barn/shop. The shop is plumbed. Plus there is a buried run that brings air to the house garage and carport. There are going to be minor air leaks in the system. Fact of life.

I will focus on one specific dilemma. The wife wants to be able to blow things up on demand. Garden cart tires, neighbor kids pool toys etc. If I turn it off after use, then you have to throw the breaker and charge up a 60 gallon tank. For one 4" tire. If I leave the compressor hot, it cycles on about twice a day, one of which will be, like a smoke detector battery, at 3am. If I close the outlet valve, the compressor itself is air-tight. But then the wife would have to crawl back behind the compressor each time and open the ball valve. That's a-not happenin'.

So I put an electric solenoid gate valve inline downstream of the ball valve. And wired it into the shop lights. All you have to do is open the door and hit the first light switch. Pooooooooff, manifolds are charged and you have air.

Now I just have to get used to the Poof when I open the shop after an extended off.

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EHCO TECH B21V-1/2-CC-120VAC SOLENOID VALVE. Diaphragm: FKM (Viton). 1/2" NPT (female) inlet / outlet ports. Semi-Direct Acting Valve (allows for good low pressure performance and gravity feed capability).

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[larry4406]

I went a different route. I have a small two stage compressor in the barn/shop. The shop is plumbed. Plus there is a buried run that brings air to the house garage and carport. There are going to be minor air leaks in the system. Fact of life.

I will focus on one specific dilemma. The wife wants to be able to blow things up on demand. Garden cart tires, neighbor kids pool toys etc. If I turn it off after use, then you have to throw the breaker and charge up a 60 gallon tank. For one 4" tire. If I leave the compressor hot, it cycles on about twice a day, one of which will be, like a smoke detector battery, at 3am. If I close the outlet valve, the compressor itself is air-tight. But then the wife would have to crawl back behind the compressor each time and open the ball valve. That's a-not happenin'.

So I put an electric solenoid gate valve inline downstream of the ball valve. And wired it into the shop lights. All you have to do is open the door and hit the first light switch. Pooooooooff, manifolds are charged and you have air.

Now I just have to get used to the Poof when I open the shop after an extended off.

1/2" 110V 120V AC Brass Electric Solenoid Valve Water Air Gas Viton NC 110VAC | eBay

EHCO TECH B21V-1/2-CC-120VAC SOLENOID VALVE. Diaphragm: FKM (Viton). 1/2" NPT (female) inlet / outlet ports. Semi-Direct Acting Valve (allows for good low pressure performance and gravity feed capability).

www.ebay.com

I will be doing similar when I move my compressor to the detached barn. I ran buried 1" RapidAir piping between the barn and the house. I plan on using this electric full port ball valve similar to Randy. I can turn the barn exterior lights on from the house and added an outlet on this switched circuit which will be used for the electric ball valve. Lights on, air on. The valve is slow open/close.

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[chipping]

The wife wants to be able to blow things up on demand.

That statement, on its own, sounded more interesting than when you explained what you meant.

So I put an electric solenoid gate valve inline downstream of the ball valve.

Also interesting. Works for both remote and local applications. As you said, there are going to be minor leaks in a plumbed system. Isolating the pressurized tank means not having to remember to manually shut off the outlet valve every time you leave the shop for an extended period.

 

[Firstram]

Chipping: That is a good point, for some systems. In my case, I use a purely mechanical unloader valve. When it sees zero flow (or some floor amount) it automatically unloads the compressor. It’s the “Load Genie”, works flawlessly, and however and whenever the compressor is shut off, flow goes to zero and it unloads in a second or two.

I used one of those when I built my after cooler, it didn't hold up. It needed to be un-stuck twice, I removed it after the third time it stopped venting.

 

[aliva]

My compressor didn't come with an unloader valve ( scrap yard find) I wired a 3 way 120 volt 1/2" Asco selonoid valve on the discharge side of the compressor. It's plumbed and wired so when the compressor is off the discharge port is open to atmosphere. I aso wired a a varable time delay relay to operate to selonoid vave. I turn the compressor on, the timer starts a countdown of about 5 seconds so the compressor has time to build up speed, the timer closes, powers the valve which redirects flow to the resovior and away we go . My pressure switch is wired to break the contactor coil circuit. This has been working flawlessly for over 30 years.