removing motor pulley - counter shaft- Heavy 10

[rw1]

I have the complete assembly out from under the cabinet in my Heavy 10. Bearing retainer washers and bolts all removed. Set screws within the Cone Pulley loosened.

Is it just a matter of tapping the whole shaft out the the LEFT (since larger motor pulleys are on) - and sliding the cone pulley out to the right of the shaft -- to remove the shaft assembly. I need to get new bearings on this 47 yr old machine.

Don't want to start pounding and break the castings....



Any thoughts and tips about removal and re-install.....appreciated - thank you!

 

[wrenchbender]

if the shaft is a standard size i would cut the shaft on each side of the cone pulley and have a competent machine shop press the shaft out of the cone and motor pulleys then have a new shaft and bearings ready to install in the assembly.

 

[burnrider]

if the shaft is a standard size i would cut the shaft on each side of the cone pulley and have a competent machine shop press the shaft out of the cone and motor pulleys then have a new shaft and bearings ready to install in the assembly.

Best way to save a scarce pulley system.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Be carefull with that large pully, there is a taper pin holding it on, Do not try to remove it with out removing the taper pin first. I would also clean the shaft with some emory cloth and remove the set screws from the cone pully, spray everything with pb blaster to help loosen everything up.

 

[rw1]

I've got the whole unit oriented so the shaft is vertical. I've poured wd-40 in the top cone that will actually hold a "pool of wd-40". Letting this soak overnight --hopefully it will begin soak in the shaft bore and begin to loosen.

I"ve tried tapping it a couple times and I think it's moved about a 1/16" -- still too much force for my liking. I will try to clean the shaft to the right side as much as possible to assist it sliding off. Good ideas guys.....thank you!

I will leave the V-Belt pulley (left side) intack for now.

SO -- once I can get the cone pulley sliding, do I strike the right end of the shaft to drive it out......or better to use a larger pipe that fits up better with the right side bearing.

I'm not worried about pulling the right bearing, it's the left one that concerns me because of the danger in removing the Taper Pin that holds the V-Belt pulley. Is that a valid concern? maybe I can repack the left bearing with grease?

 

[7HC]

I've poured wd-40 in the top cone that will actually hold a "pool of wd-40". Letting this soak overnight --hopefully it will begin soak in the shaft bore and begin to loosen.

You may get lucky, but WD40 isn't a great penetrating fluid, it's designed for water displacement, hence the initials in the name.

Kroil or PB Blaster are very effective but are generally only readily available in spray cans.

If you want something effective that you can pour in to the area, use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

M

 

[rw1]

If you want something effective that you can pour in to the area, use a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.

M

That I do have! Thank you for the home brew....I'll apply it in the morning.

Patience sounds like a good thing on this!

 

[rw1]

Had one last thought for the evening:

Maybe I should go ahead and try to drive the Taper Pin out that holds the larger Vbelt pulley to the shaft? If it comes off, now I have no problem accessing and pulling each bearing off the shaft and then I could replace without much trouble.

My concern is the stress on the casting while trying to drive the taper Pin out. Perhaps I could brace the shaft against the floor with a 2x4 -- which would absorb the blow to the floor -- instead of cast iron cradle.

THoughts?

 

[rw1]

Okay,

The taper pin popped out nicely! I think I should wait and get some bearing pullers on it after I get the bearings out of the casting.

I am now trying to drive the shaft from right to left. I have a photo of the right shaft separating from the bearing about an 1/8" or so. I guess the inside of bearing is being shifted in the right direction.

But, the LEFT side seems like there has been no movement. I'm worried I am "Spreading the Cast Iron" and it could break. Why isn't the whole thing sliding left?? Both bearings are basically staying in the same place - they should be sliding with the shaft! WIll those bearings break loose ......they are weaker than the casting, correct???

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Seems unfortunate that no one reads the parts for sale column here... I had a 10" underdrive listed for weeks that I wouldve given away for shipping costs. It came from a school and was actually maintained. Rolled really really smooth... scrap is now down to $220/ton up here and I got $5.00 for it. Oh well... ws

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/8063-FS-SB-10-drive










That was two days ago...probably on its way to china by now!:angry: