[How do I?] Removing the 208 motor and installing a 115v motor

Denisj

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Hi All!
Just scored a very well loved (worn and battle scarred) Sheldon L series 10" lathe for use in my shop.
The motor on this machine is a new-ish Dayton 208-230/440 reversible 5/8 1hp motor 3 phase motor...I only have 115v single phase
I am under the assumption I can install a motor I found at a swap meet years ago. Same speed (1725) but much less HP - 1/3 vs 1hp. In keeping with a budget setup I wanted to use what I have on hand or can get on the cheap since the lathe is very beat and I got it for nothing. I still need to get the gears for the carriage. There is a flat spot when moving it where it seems to be missing some teeth.
I am assuming 1/3hp will get the job done for the occasional thread cutting or making axle spacers. I assume most of my work will be in aluminum as it has been for some time.
I dug up the original instructions and there were a range of motors available from 1/2hp to 1hp in the L series lathes.
Any adive would be great. Much appreciated!
 

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Hi All!
Just scored a very well loved (worn and battle scarred) Sheldon L series 10" lathe for use in my shop.
The motor on this machine is a new-ish Dayton 208-230/440 reversible 5/8 1hp motor 3 phase motor...I only have 115v single phase
I am under the assumption I can install a motor I found at a swap meet years ago. Same speed (1725) but much less HP - 1/3 vs 1hp. In keeping with a budget setup I wanted to use what I have on hand or can get on the cheap since the lathe is very beat and I got it for nothing. I still need to get the gears for the carriage. There is a flat spot when moving it where it seems to be missing some teeth.
I am assuming 1/3hp will get the job done for the occasional thread cutting or making axle spacers. I assume most of my work will be in aluminum as it has been for some time.
I dug up the original instructions and there were a range of motors available from 1/2hp to 1hp in the L series lathes.
Any adive would be great. Much appreciated!
Those cylinder heads look familiar. What did they come off of?
 
I'm thinking that a 1/3HP is going to be too weak for that beauty. 1/2 min, 3/4 even better.
I've had a 1/2HP on my 10" Logan since I bought it and it has always been kinda weak, & it has finally given up the ghost.
Your Sheldon doens't look too 'beat', that chuck is rather big for it, but very nice. How is it beat?
Hi All!
Just scored a very well loved (worn and battle scarred) Sheldon L series 10" lathe for use in my shop.
The motor on this machine is a new-ish Dayton 208-230/440 reversible 5/8 1hp motor 3 phase motor...I only have 115v single phase
I am under the assumption I can install a motor I found at a swap meet years ago. Same speed (1725) but much less HP - 1/3 vs 1hp. In keeping with a budget setup I wanted to use what I have on hand or can get on the cheap since the lathe is very beat and I got it for nothing. I still need to get the gears for the carriage. There is a flat spot when moving it where it seems to be missing some teeth.
I am assuming 1/3hp will get the job done for the occasional thread cutting or making axle spacers. I assume most of my work will be in aluminum as it has been for some time.
I dug up the original instructions and there were a range of motors available from 1/2hp to 1hp in the L series lathes.
Any adive would be great. Much appreciated!
 
1/3hp will be very anemic, especially when driving the gearbox and trying to make a cut
i would go no less than 3/4hp
 
Those cylinder heads look familiar. What did they come off of?
The heads are for a Yamaha twin. I cant remember which one. They have been on the shelf for a while. I vaguely remember it being a 125. An AS1 i believe.
 
I'm thinking that a 1/3HP is going to be too weak for that beauty. 1/2 min, 3/4 even better.
I've had a 1/2HP on my 10" Logan since I bought it and it has always been kinda weak, & it has finally given up the ghost.
Your Sheldon doesn't look too 'beat', that chuck is rather big for it, but very nice. How is it beat?

- Where to start... The belt drive has a shot bushing. The previous owner just moved the belt over 1 pulley on one shaft and not he other to make up for the worn belt and bearing. The angle of the belt knife edged one of the pulleys.
- The ways look like they were used as an anvil. Lots of knocks and scars, but magically the carriage is not loose near the chuck
- The gearbox in the carriage is missing teeth
- The tailstock is hammered...literally. not sure how or why that happens and the ways near the tailstock have galling. Have you ever seen galling on ways!
- It has been in a brake repair shop for the last 500 years with no maintenance and and thick layer of fine silt grinding paste all over it. Add to it a long run of short time employees abusing it.
It is perfect for what I need it for. Accuracy is not a concern. Just turning and burnishing. I think thread cutting is no longer an option. It looks like the gear drive for the lead screw is seized. I think it may be the white lithium grease and 500 years of metal and dust that turned into an adhesive.
Hey...it was free...I am happy with that.
 

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if you take a real good look on ebay, you can find 120 single phase to 3 phase VFD's under $100
 
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