Repulsion-Induction Motor / Drum Switch Wiring Woe...

markba633csi said:
Here are two ways you could wire it Ed, "A" is the simplest and does not break the neutral line when off. "B" breaks both line wires when off.
You'll notice the Run and Start windings are interchangeable- swapping the ends of either one with respect to the other reverses the motor.
Mark S.View attachment 247924
I suspect it was wired like "B" before you cut it. If the motor was dual voltage you would want to use the "B" connection too for 220v.
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Many Thanks Mark, That is very helpful. I was doing some more digging around the net and found the windings need to be in series, so your schematic makes sense. I'll try it... If I never post again, please be sure to revise it, LOL.
 
Be careful, and don't forget to provide a good ground wire to the motor. Remember your motor was made for 110 volts only as far as I can tell.
Mark
buckaroo-banzai-still-1.jpg
 
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Am I missing something ???
When I look at the motor label plate, it appears to me to be a 1/4 HP reversible motor, but I only see stamped data for 110 volts. The blocks for the high voltage side are blank.
I know many of these data/wiring plates are generic and just stamped for the specific model. Although admittedly , I don't know much about repulsion induction motors.
 
I did a quick Google search on repulsion induction motors. Rather interesting.
Hard to tell from the pictures of the motor to see if it's like the one in this video.
 
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I mentioned this earlier(post #2), unless there is another terminal block inside then the motor is dedicated for 110 as far as I/we can tell-
I've never seen a dual voltage motor that didn't say so on the nameplate somewhere, so I'm assuming this is an economy model that was factory set
for just the one voltage.
Mark
 
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I ran all the new wires, ready for final hookup but its getting late and I'm getting fuzzy... will have to wait till tomorrow.
 
It's Alive!
At first, the motor ran backwards relative to the switch position but I simply switched the connections on 3 & 2 and it is now, rotationally correct.
Motor runs smooth... Next up, splice the flat belt in and start making chips!
 
Good deal Ed- that's a super nice lathe especially with all the history attached- I'm jealous as H**L :)
Mark
ps by the way if you ever take the other covers off the motor I'd be curious if there's any other terminals in there- If you could run it on 220 your vintage drum switch would last longer and the motor runs cooler too.
 
Ed: Does the motor go instantly from forward to reverse or does it have to come to a stop first?
Mark
 
Mark Thanks again for all your help, it is much appreciated.
markba633csi said:
Good deal Ed- that's a super nice lathe especially with all the history attached- I'm jealous as H**L :)
Mark
ps by the way if you ever take the other covers off the motor I'd be curious if there's any other terminals in there- If you could run it on 220 your vintage drum switch would last longer and the motor runs cooler too.
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I'm fine with it at 110v, I have it temporarily on a lighting circuit and they barely dim when it's switched on. However, I am curious to see the brush arrangement, it appears there are easily removed covers at the ends of the motor. I'll have a look when I have time.
markba633csi said:
Ed: Does the motor go instantly from forward to reverse or does it have to come to a stop first?
Mark
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Yes it seems to have quick reversal, not as fast a servo but fast enough. I'll check that out more the next time I'm at my shop, in a few days.
 
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