Savage mo. 1904 headspace

lcchappell

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I picked up this early model 1904 to refinish for my son when I discovered that the head space was too long for the striker to detonate the .22 rim. The most straight forward approach I can think of is to add material some how to the "receiver" behind the lug of the bolt handle, but I'm unsure of the best way to do that. I have a welder, but am unsure about metal finish and temper once I add metal and file it down. Have considered soldering a piece of shim stock, but would that peel away from friction with the bolt handle? I appreciate any help. Thanks
 

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I wouldn't hesitate to weld up that rear handle abuttment and machine to a good headspace. 'Timing' the bolt would perhaps be a complication on a centerfire, but for .22 you really have little to worry about, and that part of the receiver doesn't need to be very-hard.

GsT
 
I may be misunderstanding, but lockup and firing are two different things, especially in a rimfire cartridge where traditional "headspace" isn't a thing.
If the bolt locks up securely and the cartridge is held securely, then the culprit is the worn tip of the firing pin, not the receiver. Added metal to more than one rimfire pin to restore sufficient length (usually .030-.060) to reliably fire.
 
I may be misunderstanding, but lockup and firing are two different things, especially in a rimfire cartridge where traditional "headspace" isn't a thing.
If the bolt locks up securely and the cartridge is held securely, then the culprit is the worn tip of the firing pin, not the receiver. Added metal to more than one rimfire pin to restore sufficient length (usually .030-.060) to reliably fire.
Headspace in a rimfire is pretty much the amount of space allowed for the rim. Too much (as in this case) and you get inadequate ignition. Too little, and the bolt doesn't close easily. Which is to say, pretty much the same symptoms as usual.

GsT
 
When I hold the bolt forward it will fire, which leads me to believe the issue is inadequate head space, not a worn firing pin, or striker in this instance.
 
I'd be more inclined to set the barrel shoulder back and re-cut the extractor groove to match. I'm not too keen on doing a Jethro job on the receiver with a welder.
The barrel and receiver are machined from one piece. The receiver essentially is the barrel.
 
In looking at your last photo, it appears the recoil lug behind the handle has moved back. I would put a flat across the rear of the receiver to confirm this. If so I would be inclined to just tap it forward into its proper place.
Pierre
 
I agree with Pierre. It looks like the receiver lug is bent out & to the rear.
 
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