Happy to help. Jim is a super guy, and it's pretty hard to beat, being able to tap into his 40+ years of Harig history. When he saw the serial number of my grinder, he was pretty certain that he was the one that fitted the cross feed screw and nut, as that was one of his duties at the time. Pretty cool to be able to talk to one of the craftsmen that built your machine! I'll be working in the shop today, and will take what measurements I can, and a few photos, and post them later today or this evening.
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Saving a Harig Super 612
- Thread starter akjeff
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2019
- Messages
- 1
Dear Jeff, I had an experience similar to yours. A few years ago I purchased a Jones and Shipman 540 which was originally purchased in 1986, but had had problems with the electronic chuck controller soon after. From what I could tell, it got shoved into a corner of the shop, then changed hands, and basically was unused until I got it five years ago. I fixed the chuck controller and then had a brand new surface grinder.
One comment about the grind pattern below. It looks as if your wheel is clogged or not cutting properly, hence the herringbone pattern. You need to get a proper wheel dresser: a diamond tip mounted on a block that you can clamp down on the chuck. It should be tilted about 15 degrees away from vertical and you should be able to easily unlock and rotate the diamond to expose fresh faces. If you learn to dress your wheel properly you'll get a mirror finish and not the herringbone.
One comment about the grind pattern below. It looks as if your wheel is clogged or not cutting properly, hence the herringbone pattern. You need to get a proper wheel dresser: a diamond tip mounted on a block that you can clamp down on the chuck. It should be tilted about 15 degrees away from vertical and you should be able to easily unlock and rotate the diamond to expose fresh faces. If you learn to dress your wheel properly you'll get a mirror finish and not the herringbone.
Nice snag on the J&S 540! And thanks for the advice on the herringbone surface finish. While I have a nice Norton diamond dresser, it turns out I wasn't using it often enough! Gave the wheel a good dressing and tried it on a another part with much better results. Again, appreciate your comment/advice. I'm new to grinding, and have much to learn.
@Cahark , here's a little info on the table drive cable. It looks to be 1/16" steel cable, and has a plastic/rubber sheath which is 1/8" OD. One end anchors to a stud on the left end of the table, makes two wraps around the pulley, and then on the the J-hook on the right end of the table. The J-hook is about 4" long, and threaded 1/4"-20.
Forgot to add these details. The "pulley" is 1.20" O.D. where the cable wraps around it. At 1.250" in from the end there is a shoulder where it steps up to 1.250". Unfortunately, I can't give you a total length of the pulley, as some if it is in the casting where it contacts the bearing. I'll see if I can find my M-C order to see what the shafting is. I want to say it's .625", and about 12" long. If I can find the bearing order, I'll get you those part numbers as well. Good luck!
These bearings are 5202-2RS. So that means the shafting is indeed .625". No help on the dimensions of the spacer sleeve in between the bearings. Hopefully your rack and pinion drive uses the same internal components as this cable drive. That'll make things much easier.
I don't know. This system has been used by Harig( and I suspect other cable driven grinders ) for many years, and I don't recall reading about it being an issue. Though I'm sure it will eventually wear out. With using bare SS cable, the pulley would have to be harder than woodpecker lips to prevent it from being sawn in half. Then there's the issue of slippage. Time will tell.
@akjeff thanks for all the pictures and dimensions. I created my own post and made sure to credit you.
Thanks again!